The Counters Blog

And When Not To Seal Marble Tile In A Shower

Once your tile is installed, or even as a maintenance option, you have the choice to seal your marble tile and the grout as well. This is usually polished marble installed as larger slabs, and not as individually cut tiles. If you are unsure which marble you have, contact a professional as they can test the marble for its absorbency. In addition, if the marble is not absorbent, then it will not absorb the sealer, and the sealer wont work. Sealing the marble will reduce the chances of hard water stains from setting in, or at the very least make it much harder to accumulate calcium and lime deposits over time. Not to mention the higher chance of serious mold or mildew growth behind the shower tiles. If you have just constructed your home, and have chosen marble as a countertop or tile for the shower, we suggest you inspect it with your contractor prior to any final maintenance such as sealing, to catch any flaws before they become larger problems. The stone offers an elegant and beautifully unique landscape and lends a sense of regality to the bathroom. Depending on what sealer you choose, this may be a semi-permanent or a full permanent option, as some sealers will penetrate and form everlasting (or close to) bonds with the marble. Before you consider sealing your tile, keep in mind that there is marble that does not need to be sealed. However, rough cut marble is much more porous than polished marble, and can be a candidate for sealing. As polished marble has very little chance of water absorbency, there is a much less chance of staining, and therefore sealing is not really necessary. A major consideration when deciding whether or not to seal your marble shower is that hard water stains are a common theme in bathrooms, specifically in showers and baths. Another important factor is ensuring that there is no existing damage to the marble.

What Happens If You Don’t Seal Stone Countertops? by

The more porous the stone, the easier it is for damage and stains to occur. With the right stone-safe granite sealer , the process can keep your countertops beautiful. This staining can happen in a matter of minutes, even if you’re quick to wipe up the spill. Some cleaning products contain citrus, which can quickly eat away at the calcium in the stone and leave pits. You might think something as natural as water wouldn’t be a problem, but it is. Without proper maintenance, even the strongest stone countertops can experience damage to the finish, unpleasant stains, and irreversible damage to the stone itself. Spray the sealer onto the stone in three-foot sections, then immediately wipe it into the countertop with a lint-free cloth. It’s important to seal granite, marble, and other porous natural stone often to keep liquids from seeping into the stone and causing damage. The good news is sealing your countertops is easier than you might think. Chemicals that seep into the stone can damage the finish and cause discoloration. Unsealed stone absorbs liquid quickly, which can become a problem in a kitchen or bathroom where countertops are bound to get wet. The good news is maintaining your stone countertops is easy. First, clean the stone thoroughly with a granite-safe cleaner. Buff the surface right away until it’s dry for a flawless finish and the best possible protection.

Natural Stone Tiles by

The adhesive you require will be dependant on the conditions and substrate that the tile is being fixed on. Marble has fewer voids on the back of tile (if any), however care should b e taken to check for these and the tile should be ‘back buttered’. This stops dirt and grime getting sealed on to the surface when the subsequent sealer is applied. This will help stop adhesive and grout sticking to the pores in the surface while the tiles are being fitted. This is to avoid dark shadowing from the back of the tile after installation. The adhesive should be spread on to the substrate and trowelled out as a ribbed bed. We recommend a specialist cleaning product because ‘off the shelf’ supermarket cleaner may be too acidic for the surface of marble.

How To Seal Marble Tile With Polyurethane Clear Coat? [Archive] by

You mentioned you bought the tiles with the poly coating already on them. Do you know if your existing floor has a deflection rating suitable for a marble install? Damages on pictures are the installer fault grouting with knee pads on and draggin bucket(he has being fired), they told me the stone can be really fragil but as long is well installed will not cracked in normal use or scratch if no shoes is walked in. As long as the cracks were properly treated (if there are any), you’ll be ok. As far as a mud installation, it depends if you have room for it. Therefore, double plywood, an isolation membrane, and a medium bed thinset will achieve the same results. You really are not allowing for the normal transfer of vapor through the material. It has no coating, and more than likely no sealer will penetrate the surface. This dark stone will also scratch from regular foot traffic. The thinset had only about a 50% bond, chipped material installed, and staircase city. I knew there was no coat in these stones was my ex-installer bright idea on saying that. Almost everything in my region is over a wood frame structure.

Should I Seal My Tile? by

I would then reseal according to the manufacturers recommendations, or when a drop of water no longer “ponds” on the sealer. I am a new home owner and will have ceramic tile floors and walls along the kitchen counters and bathroom shower. It’s actually rated for both interior and exterior usage, so you know it’s gotta be pretty tough! Since you’re working with tiles that don’t require sealing, you only really need to cover the grout. It will not harm the tile though, it just makes for extra cleaning later on. Multiple applications may be necessary, and be sure to wear grouting gloves or similar hand protection when working with the sealer. You'll want to be careful not to let any excess dry on the tiles, as it will leave reside. However if you wish to do this on a large scale application, you certainly can. Just be careful not to leave too much of the sealer on your actual tile, and you should be just fine. Porcelain tile on the bathroom floors – installed greater than 30 days. Finally, we here in the community love to see pictures of your projects! My rule of thumb is to allow the grout to cure for at least 72 hours before applying a sealer. I would also suggest resealing your marble every other year. I would then reseal according to the manufacturers recommendations, or when a drop of water no longer "ponds" on the sealer. Also will have granite counter tops in bathrooms and kitchens. I apply the sealer to the whole floor and wall tiles or is it only applied to the grout? This is great for smaller areas, but can be quite cumbersome for larger applications. Since you're working with tiles that don't require sealing, you only really need to cover the grout. While it won’t harm the tile, it can leave water marks and depending on the sealer, it may change the sheen of your tile to something a bit more glossy or matte. Hope that helps answer your question and gets your project underway. Just like with ceramics, porcelain tiles come with a glazing over them that helps protect the tile already.

Sealing Granite and Natural Stones by

They soak into the stone and fill in any open voids or pores so that a staining agent cannot. Or, you don’t get all of the sealer off of the surface of your stone and a film is left behind. An impregnator or penetrating sealer is recommended for sealing granite countertops, vanities, showers, and more. The sealer absorbs into the stone, the resins fill in any openings between the minerals, and finally, the carrying agent evaporates up and out of your stone. These sealers require periodic reapplication based on the frequency of your deep cleanings and also the brand of sealer used. Or at least they make it really hard for a staining agent to soak in! You apply the sealer and then you wipe it all back off. Any sealer that hasn’t absorbed into the stone is wiped off. An impregnating sealer does not and should not leave a coating or film on top. A sealer does not protect your stone from hard water deposits either. This type of sealer does not need to be re applied as often as a topical sealer because there is no surface coating to wear off. Some manufacturers recommend sealing granite and natural stone yearly, while others recommend every five to ten years.

Natural Stone Tile Floors; Design Facts by

Using an experienced, professional contractor ensures a proper installation that will result in a longer life for your floor and easier maintenance for you. Regardless of the type of flooring being removed, this is typically a time-consuming and messy process. After the old flooring is removed the subfloor will need to be sealed against moisture (especially important for bathroom floors). The installation crew is now ready to start placing the tile. Tip: the installers will need an easily accessible outside location where they can place the saw and cut the tiles as needed. After the tiles are set, it’s time to grout and/or seal them. After grouting, the tiles are sponged clean, removing any grout residue and dust. You can now enjoy your beautiful natural stone, tiled floor. You’ll find natural stone tiles in an incredibly wide variety of colors and patterns. Installing these natural stone tiles is very labor-intensive and professional installation is almost always recommended. If the subflooring is wood, however, a cement backing material such is required as a moisture barrier and for support. Grouting is required to keep the tiles together as well as in place. Bathroom or kitchen flooring should be left completely moisture free for this period as well to ensure the grout dries completely. Hopefully, this guide has helped inform you about what to expect during installation and answered any questions you might have had.

Help I Scratched My Stone Countertop! What Can I Do? by

Superficial scratches or barely noticeable scratches can sometimes be fixed yourself though due to the hardness of the stone it’s best to ask a professional. Then, gently buff the scratch with dry 300 grit sandpaper or #0000 steel wool. Once you’ve buffed out the scratch, clean the area with water and a soft cloth to remove any particles from the countertop and the sandpaper. Then, flush the area with water to remove any abrasive particles, and then apply a special marble sealant to protect the countertop. However, you can’t treat it like marble when you’re fixing scratches. Instead, use a paper towel or a soft cloth to work mineral oil into the scratch. Lighter limestones can be buffed with fine-grit sandpaper like marble and limestone, but be very careful and gentle so as to not introduce new scratches to the area. In the event of a scratch or small pit, it’s also easy to fix because of the resin component. Otherwise, the scratch will have just become more noticeable! It’ll be better to have a professional fix it right rather than get yourself into a bigger, more expensive problem! It happens to everyone at some point or another, and its nearly impossible to prevent — so cut yourself some slack! When in doubt, bring in the professionals — better to have them do it right the first time! Go slow and start in a very small, preferably unnoticeable area first. Finally, apply two coats of granite sealer, waiting 48 hours between coats. Like granite, you can use a fine grit sandpaper or steel wool to very gently buff out the scratch, but be very careful not to introduce new scratches to the area. If you have a polished marble surface, you can try specially-formulated marble polishing paste, which may help buff out a scratch and restore the surface. Dark-colored limestones cannot be sanded, as scratches will often appear lighter and sanding will create a larger, more noticeable light area on the countertop. This won’t fill it or make it disappear per se, but will help it blend into the surrounding area nearly seamlessly. After flushing the area with water, you’ll want to work mineral oil into the affected area before sealing to help protect the stone. This creates a granite-like speckled effect that is incredibly strong, resistant to scratches, and nonporous. Simply fill in the scratch of a small pit with specially-formulated resin or epoxy and allow it to set for at least 24 hours or longer if recommended by the manufacturer. Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle to the countertop and gently scrape to remove the excess material, using a gentle hand so as to not dislodge the whole filling. However, unless you can match the color exactly, you may want to go with a clear material. Although getting a scratch on your stone countertop might seem like a big deal, it’s actually a very common and expected occurrence. If you decide to go the latter route, just be sure to go slow and stop if you think you’re doing more harm than good. Let us know, and we might just address the topic in a future post!


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