Can An Existing Granite Countertop Sink Opening Be Enlarged Place To Put In A

Can an existing granite countertop sink opening be enlarged (in place) to put in a slightly larger undermount sink? Do granite dealers have the capacity to wet cut the larger opening on site in my kitchen? I always full-contact glue a reinforcing piece of plywood underneath under the narrow strips and all around the sink cutout edges but many installers do not, so that can severely limit how far you can cut into it for a larger sink.

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How do we convert our drop-in sink to an undermount one? I ran across this post that mentions that they used converted a drop-in to undermount. The support and sealing of an under mount sink is completely different than a drop in. If you are very clever, you probably can fit the drop in under the counter, but how are you going to finish the counter edges and drill your fixture holes? I realize under/drop-in are completely different in the way they are mounted and how things are cut but was looking to see if anyone knew some tips on avoiding the undermount tax. You just have to knock out a few holes for the undermount. They may even be able to take the sink back with then after they come out to measure, and before the cut the granite to see if it would work. This is becoming more and more popular per our granite installer. They also do not stain like granite can as they are not porous. Will you have room for any water filtration systems under the sink? This will allow me to ‘pour over’ the edges with the epoxy on my top layer, giving it a proper finished edge where in the interior rim. You can only ‘sandwich mount’ if you are making your own counter, though. They all have a nice flat rim top, maybe just 1/4 inch more narrow a rim than undermount sinks. Whereas, with the undermount sink requires it to be polished smooth and have straight lines because that’s going to be part of the finished look. There’s where most of the extra cost lies in doing the under mount vs top mount. I would suggest ask counter top installer guys do it for you, because they have lots of experiences and they know if that certain drop in sink also can be used as under mount. The counter people must have the sink ready to measure the opening in the countertop, so you must do this before they come to template the countertop. If soap stone, you can create some kind of small frame to support the sink and the countertop will just go above it. The main thing is to have this done before they come to template it. They make them much smaller for top mount so you don’t need a large escucheon plate. It will mount exactly the same, but you will have to really check all the extra hardware and how it mounts through the stone and sink. Does anyone know what is involved with that type of change? The holes for the faucet need to be in the counter, not the sink unit, and the edges of the sink unit have to be flat and are usually epoxied and clamped in place while the counter is upside down. There are come sinks that can be used for both, we just got one for our bar sink. I don’t know why that sink cost so much more however, they are the same depth and the same steel gague. They are made from a composite granite and polymer mix, and do not scratch like stainless steel, and can match your counter in color. Thanks for the post; if you happen to have a picture you could add it would be most welcome. So simple, tons of fun making this epoxy counter, and we can use any sink we want. Most likely, it’s jagged and uneven because the lip of the top mount sink will cover it up. The labor is much more intensive than it looks plus the tools to do the job properly. Like other posters said – the price of undermount is unjustified considering how easy it is to take a top mount sink and convert it into an undermount. Also have your new faucet ready – they’ll need to drill holes into the countertop for it. Plus the faucet mounting hardware may not fit through the small holes of the top mount, once mounted below the granite or stone countertop. Browse other questions tagged kitchens sink or ask your own question.

Minimum Measurements For Sink and Faucet Granite Window Sinks Ceiling by

Aside from having enough room for the sink and faucet, is there a minimum amount of stone that needs to remain between the sink and faucet cut outs? As you can see, the edge is relatively small- won’t eat into the faucet space. Modern replacements are 18 deep which are called reduced depth but today everything is 21″ deep. You can also buy an 18′ deep if you dont have the room. And do not buy from the big box store unless you like to over pay. Cultured marble tops are manufactured in 4 standard sizes in 22″ deep and 3 standard sizes in 19″ deep. I always go for easy to clean, functional and longevity at a reasonable price. There are plywoods that disintegrate instantly upon exposure to water too. So if the water dont disolve the cabinet then the formaldehyde will. I still wonder though what exactly that product is you mention that shows light through. Facing the room, left side will be the shower, middle will be bath vanity/sink, toilet on the right. The front to back interior dimension of the vanity base is 18 1/4″. A standard reduced depth vanity top will be 19″ deep which would leave you no overhang. You are doomed unless you do the right thing and buy a new vanity which will be 21 deep. I never heard of having a custom made cultured marble top made. If some one were just placing a cultured top on a non standard sized vanity then you would just by one size too big and cut it. You would cut them on the wall side and if the cut is lously it is just covered up with the side splash. I think you are saying you had them custom made for your home. It is not even necessary because they come in the standard sizes that are standard size vanity cabinets. Cultured tops are soft (they are fake manufactured marble) and you can cut them with any standard circular saw. The issue is what grade is the plywood and what grade is the particle board. That’s if the poor consumer dont get cancer or asthma first from the toxic exposure. Does she have maybe a glass vessel sink that shows the light through it? I grew-up with the rounded knobs on separate hot & cold faucets. I installed a bathroom sink a couple years ago (i watched while a friend of a friend did it).

How To Install A Stainless Steel Undermount Sink In Granite Countertop by

Give the glue even more time to cure than is specified on the label so there’s no danger of the bond breaking when you fill the sink. Place a two-by-four across the sink opening parallel to the direction of the counter. Glue the bolt posts that came with the sink around to the underside of the counter around the perimeter of the rim with two-part epoxy glue. There are different styles, but most have nuts you tighten onto blots with a wrench. The installation is only as secure as the glue you use, however, so it pays to use the strongest two-part epoxy cement you can find. Clean the underside of the counter with a rag to remove dust that may be left over from the process of cutting the hole. Lay a generous bead of silicone caulk around the flat part of the sink rim with a caulking gun. Fit a bar clamp over the wood and into the sink hole, then raise the sink against the bottom of the counter and adjust the clamp to hold it in place. Center the sink, then tighten the clamps to hold it tightly enough to prevent it from moving. Use masking tape to hold the posts in place while the glue sets. Attach the sink to the posts with the fasteners supplied with the bolt posts. If you don’t have bar clamps, it may be more cost effective to buy or rent a specialty tool to hold the sink in place while you glue the bolt posts.


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