Concrete Countertop Overlay



Yes, seriously, the amount of pickiness these countertops have created drives my husband a little nuts!

I think someone had given this kitchen an early 90’s makeover.

I gave the existing counters a quick sand with the hand sander to rough them up hoping to help the cement stick well.

It’s meant for the same floor resurfacing as the feather finish is.


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Most of the on-line tutorials say to apply about three different layers of cement, sanding with 60, 120 and 220 grit sandpaper in between each layer of cement.

I wanted to do it right so they would have the best chance of “making it” (holding up) at our crazy house!

The pic above shows the what the first layer of cement looks like.

I think moisture gets in the concrete pours and darkens them.

Just use a poly, and then have your kids use a plate when eating off the counter.

I let my stick coffee cup sit on my desk every day…no problems.

Then enjoy the beauty of your new countertops, and the money you saved!

We are going to do this for a work bench my husband is building for me.

When we built our house the dark counter tops and cabinets were in.

Did you re apply the poly over top yours or did you strip the food safe sealer first?

The overlay that you just trowel over your existing nasty laminate countertops!

It’s also super messy and has some serious drawbacks that may stop you in your tracks!

It didn’t really turn out “white”, but it is very light and looks almost quartz-like when sanded down well, instead of like cement.

A large trowel or a yard stick would be a good flat surface to help trowel the cement over the counter.

I later did my desk top the with the same cement and took some serious short cut…..no difference everyone!

I hand-sanded with 220 and maybe even 300 just to make sure it got really smooth.



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It took a lot of sand paper, and it wasn’t quite as smooth, but it was fast….and not as messy, and really it looks the same as the counters.

Forget the expensive food safe stuff and just use polyurethane!

Unless you’ve gone to great lengths to buy or refinish a table yourself with non-toxic sealer, you are eating off toxic sealer!

Polycrylic is in blue can and oil motified one is in black and gold can if that helps your memory.

Laying it over your current counters seems like a great option.

The oil based polyurethane yellows, but if you use the water-based it will not yellow.

He’s going to make the wooden countertop and put cement board on top for me to do the application.

Trying to get a brighter look in my kitchen without spending a fortune.

Painting Oak Cabinets White: An Amazing Transformation by lovelyetc.com

I put together a full post sharing all of the details of how they look now along with plenty of pics right here.

You did a great job and your kitchen is looking fabulous.

The one big downfall of white cabinets is they definitely do show dirt/food/whatever more.

I like that it goes on smoothly and dries to a really hard finish.

I wanna take a transformation for my kitchen as you did, i love white.

Amazon that it is 8 oz is that the only way it comes?

The coverage is pretty good, although you do have to use more coats of white than other colors.

The spackling is not very hard, so it is easy to sand off without too much elbow grease.

I didn’t let it cure that entire time, which was of course a risk.

We painted ours several years ago (oak to white), having bought expensive paint suggested at paint store, and are constantly repainting to cover heavy “traffic” areas to cover blemishes.

I actually did the same thing to the frames -spackle, sand, paint.

Does it look funny having white on the outside and oak on the inside?

I don’t think it looks strange at all having the insides unpainted.

When you hold them up next to the fronts it is very obvious.

If you are reusing your hinges, be sure to label them as well.

Painting had to have been a pain but was totally worth your time.



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Everything takes so long to finish – but it looks really good once it is done!

I had just had a conversation with my mother in law about changing my cabinets to white and she told me that was a bad idea, that streaks will be seen, that it will chip, and that the paint is so strong that my condo will smell like paint for a very long time.

Also the paint surface looks great – as long a you are careful with your cabinets for the first couple of weeks, you shouldn’t have any problems with chips.

I have a baby and a preschooler so we have way too much food all over the place.

You will know you have sanded enough when the wood is completely smooth to the touch.

I haven’t seen any problems for not waiting the entire time.

My question is …do you have an idea how much paint it took?

Here’s hoping it stays that way for the next six months and beyond!

The only difference is you probably won’t need as many coats of paint with any other color!

Just to be clear, no sanding before sealing the wood tannins or prior to cleaning?

I didn’t have any problems removing the hinges and screws and then using them again to rehang the cabinets.

I was wondering what steps you took to paint the frame of the cabinet once the door was off?

One question – did you paint the interior of the cabinets?

I don’t think anyone really pays attention to the insides of your cabinets once they are full of dishes and things.

It has been slow going for several reasons – working full-time, trying to have a small life outside of renovating the kitchen, and no work area to speak of…but, hanging in there because it is starting to take shape.

Have you regretted not filling the grain on the inside of the cabinets?

But when the doors are actually on your cabinets and you are going about your day, you aren’t going to notice at all.

Can You Lay Tile Directly Over A Plywood Subfloor? by todayshomeowner.com

Even if you use a waterproof underlayment membrane, the floor will still be either 1/4″ or 1/2” higher than the subfloor, plus the thickness of the tile and adhesive.

Just checking the procedure on lying down tile on wood subfloor.

Been doing it for 15 years with no complaints from any customers.

Needless to say, the tile has cracked and the grout lines have cracked for the 2nd time (this was only 4 months ago and he’s already been back out here 1 time and will be coming back out again).

Does anyone know of flexible grout will flex enough to last on a 2nd floor without anything on top of the plywood?

I felt this wasn’t right which led me to here, but i suppose it’s too late now.

There are tile companies that actually use 3/4″ exterior rated plywood as their standard substrate with a quality modified thinset.

The obvious drawback is that the height of the floor gets to be pretty high at times and you have to watch the height of exterior doors, etc.

These blanket statements becoming gospel are ridiculous and they happen all too often.

I still get calls for more work after being out of it for 10 years because my work held up.

To me, they ruined the industry with all the “latest and greatest” fad products.

We are redoing 230 square feet of tile in our front hallway.

Should we use plywood and cement board or can we just use plywood for the subfloor?

It is a good idea to put half inch plywood underlay to strengthen the floor before using modified thin set to put the tile directly on wood.

Now the entire flooring of ceramic tiles needs to be torn out and replaced.

When in doubt add blocking in the joists (if you can get at them) and more screws in the subfloor to make sure.

It’s not necessary to make it fully waterproof just resistant enough so that moisture that gets through the grout joints mostly dries out back through the grout instead of through the wood.

Unless the floor gets really wet on a daily basis this should last indefinitely.

It was layed directly onto the plywood subfloor – 25 years ago.

So why are people recommending backer board or some other membrane?

To my surprise, the marble tiles were laid directly on top of this plywood without cementboard (probably because the toilet drain calls for a rear flush model, and cementboard would have disrupted where the toilet and drain met).



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No matter how firm the subfloor; the plywood will expand and contract at a different rate as the tile, causing cracks to develop in the grout lines or tiles over time.

If you screw the boards down every 6 in you will have no problem.

I should have gone with my gut and put in the hardie board instead of the luan.

Tile can be installed over a plywood substrate, and it is actually a fantastic way to make sure you don’t have deflection in your floor.

If you want to know why- it’s because it pretty much doesn’t matter what the subfloor is under that plywood.

Better to have it a little higher than deal with that kind of mess.

Going to leave some carpet what need to be done between the carpet and the tile.

The nice thing about tiling over plywood is that, should you drop something and break a tile, you can remove it without disturbing the surrounding tiles.

Adhering the cement board to plywood only works if the plywood is re-scuffed or sanded first with a 20 grit disc sandpaper and you use a minimum 3/8″ trowel for the thinset.

If the subfloor is 5/8 or 3/4 you can probably apply tile directly to it with no problem.

Two – paint the plywood with some waterproofing / crack isolation membrane.

It was in perfect condition and that bathroom was used daily for 25 years.

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