The Counters Blog

DIY Pour In Place Countertops Concrete Home Depot

I have a couple of the white paint pens, they makes them in an oil-based formula that writes on plastic. I guess you have to be there to see that the backsplash really will cover it up. Do the “back straight forms” you used where the countertops will butt up again the wall have the ability to curve? However, if you’re using an undermount sink that has a special shape and/or curves, they actually sell a sink form that can form curves quite easily. That probably won’t get out 100% of the bubbles, but you can go back over any bubbles and fill them in and sand them smooth.I can visualize the softlly patterned white concrete countertops with the white subway tile backsplash in a herringbone pattern, the green cabinets, and the striped floor, and it’s loooookinnngg gooooood! How often you need to re-seal is going to depend on how much traffic your countertop sees. We did not have to worry about the plastic falling off since it was securely screwed down and it helped protect the front of the cabinets from concrete spills/messes that occurred. Once the counter tops were finished, we took a utility knife and cut the plastic right under the counter top. There’s not any chance of dust or wet concrete getting into the cabinets. Well, not you, but us average ladies who don’t go hauling lumber etc around everyday!
Quikrete 80 Lb. Commercial Grade Countertop Mix 1106 80 The Home Depot From Homedepot | Duration 1 Minutes 1 Seconds Although it’s very likely that once the concrete is completely dry and cured, it’ll support its own weight, especially on a small overhang. You’ll just need temporary supports (2x legs) while the concrete is curing. Kristi wears me to a frazzle with all of this work she does! I am so anxious to see how the white countertops, green cabinets and tan & white striped floor all look together. I may have missed it but my hesitation with doing this at my own home was the weight it puts on the floors, etc. But really, people think of concrete as being so very heavy, but it actually weighs just a bit less than a piece of granite of the same size and thickness. My one question is how do you get those edge pieces off after you’ve poured the concrete? The only parts that remain are the two small pieces that form a 90-degree angle around the front edge of the cabinets. Even if you were to get on the floor and look up at the countertop overhang, it’ll just be concrete. I was wondering how in the heck that would snap off, so it makes sense that it gets left there. Then they go back over it and fill in the voids with a slightly different color for some variation. DIY Pour in Place Countertops Concrete Home Depot We left the plastic in place through the pour, staining, and sealing processes. I think, as you said, the trick is in the cuts and also you do need someone with strength to help you. Would the backerboard be enough to hold it, or does it involve another kind of framing? It would probably be wise to support it with legs or corbels or some other kind of bracket, like you generally see on a breakfast bar that overhangs a countertop. You could run out and get them lunch, etc, and you could make sure the laughter keeps flowing if things should get a little rough. I don’t recall you mentioning if you have to have extra support under your cabinets when having concrete counters. At the end of your post you say all you have to do is ‘lather and rinse’? I can secondly understand how excited you are, given that we’ve been through multiple kitchen renovations.

Ghostshield 16 Oz. Concrete Countertop Water and Stain Repellent 880 by

The butter left an outline of where it was, though now (a day later) it disappeared. I made concrete countertops for our bathrooms and used a generic sealer. I bought this sealer for our concrete countertops in the kitchen mostly because it was food safe and rated for hot pans. It provides long lasting protection against deterioration or staining caused by water absorption salt. DIY Pour in Place Countertops Concrete Home Depot This product has an extremely fast set time and unsurpassed stain resistance. Hydropel works better and lasts longer than conventional sealers because it contains a unique blend of silane and siloxane compounds which chemically react with. A natural finish, solvent-based sealer featuring an oleophobic additive that repels water and fluids, resisting oil based staining, and eases clean up. It penetrates and chemically bonds deep within the substrate to form a hydrophobic barrier within the pores. This unique formula leaves the surface with a clear low sheen non-yellowing satin finish.

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