Then they covered the form edges in vinyl tape and sealed the joints with silicone caulk. With your form upside down and ready to go, weigh out both batches of concrete (one with and one without pigment) and mix them at the same time, in separate barrel mixers. The next day strip the forms and carefully flip the casting. Once that time has passed, it’s time to finish what will be your countertop surface. Once you’ve exposed the glass and stone to the desired point, lightly wet-polish the entire surface and edges to 200 grit.Mix them to the consistency of yogurt and with gloved hands rub them onto the surface, matching them to the color bands, and smooth with a putty knife.
Let the twice-slurried, polished slab air-dry for one more night. After two hours, scrub the area, neutralize it with your baking soda solution, rinse thoroughly and let dry overnight. However you build your form, make sure you use a pencil to sketch out the boundaries for each band (one caramel-colored, one with the beach glass, and one plain gray) for guidance when placing the concrete. Place the caramel-colored batch first, in small handfuls, against the edge of the form, and fill out to the pencil boundary. Vibrate the filled form to consolidate, and cover for the night with polyethylene sheeting.
How To Mix, Pour And Finish Your Own Counters; Complete Guide To Diy Concrete Countertops | Duration 14 Minutes 14 Seconds
Wet it down, cover with a damp curing blanket, and rewrap it in the plastic sheeting again for several days. Mix two slurry batches at the same ratio as the master batch – one with pigment and one without – using cement and the acrylic admixture. Do two coats, and allow the first to cure overnight and polish it off before repeating the process for the second. For the final band of color, mask the caramel band and the beach-glass band with cardboard and apply your three stains with a small pump-up sprayer as desired.
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