The Counters Blog

How To Cut A Laminate Formica Countertop DIY House Tips

Mark your measurement for the necessary length on the edge on the counter. With a carpenter’s square mark your cutting line onto the first piece of masking tape. Set the depth of your blade to 1/8th inch deeper than the thickest part of the counter. The manufacturer of your sink should have supplied a template that you can transfer onto the counter to get an exact cutting line. Screw a 1×2 (you can use the same piece you used for a rip fence if it is wider than the sink) to the center of your future hole. You will find that it is a little harder to control a straight line with a jig saw but not to worry, the lip of the sink will cover any minor slips over your mark. Any suggestions how to shorten a counter with attached back? My best advise is to find a friend that owns a radial arm saw, or rent one for the day. Of course, there is the issue of portability with a radial arm saw. The top is detachable so that will not be a problem to take it off the cabinet. Most of what is described in this post still pertains, but in this situation you will need to make a second cut by angling your saw blade to match the existing bevel. Even more difficult will be getting your hands on some matching laminate so you can re-laminate your new edge. The more teeth the finer the cut, and the masking tape will reduce the chance of chipping. They iron on and there is always allot of extra material that needs to be removed. We want to cut the formica back splash down, without removing them and add granite counter tops, on top. Or do we need to remove them first and then use the circular saw? If the back splash is a molded piece of the counter, then just have at it with the saw. This will make a much finer cut, and cut on the down stroke to avoid chipping (along with the masking tape). Best thing you can do is flip the counter upside down and make all of your measurment marks. The saw blades motion cuts up into the laminate when cut upside down. Can we use a router to bevel the edge of the countertop before we paint it to give it a more modern look? For homeowners use it once & toss it who cares saves time & we all need more of that. A fellow woodworker (who also hand crafts violins) tipped me off on this tool and it has been very useful for kitchen remodels. Measure the distance from the blade on your circular saw to the edge of its shoe. Again, always have the blade up to full speed before initiating the cut. That will solve your issue of cutting through the backsplash in one motion. So, a second solution is to do the majority of the cut with your circular saw and finish (very carefully) with a hand saw. Again, cutting wide of the mark and sanding down later gives you some latitude. I would not recommend trying this without previous practice. You’ll be covering it with the granite, which will hide the cut anyway. I build cabinets and regularly cut and install laminate tops. Fasten a fence to the bottom matching the offset of the circular saw faceplate. This will prevent chips, no need for masking tape, and since your cutting on the underside you cant scratch it with the saw……again no need for tape. My problem is the countertop was epoxied to 3/4 ” plywood and then secured to the cabinets. For details, read my article on how to scribe and cut irregular shapes.

Atom Voyages by atomvoyages.com

Once embarked on a limited refit project on your classic cruise r, you will surely be tempted to carry on until she is finally transformed into the boat you dreamed she could be. An example of this effect happened when we pulled down salon headliners to access the fasteners to rebed leaking deck fittings. Then it seemed a shame to reinstall those old sagging, discolored, vinyl-covered headliners. If going for new deckhouse headliners, we might as well replace the other headliners under the decks and in the forward cabin to match. Besides, covering all these teak surfaces in laminate would subtract from the interiors rich, natural look. Original varnish was stripped and replaced with satin urethane on bulkheads and gloss on trim. Unfortunately, the converging lines of the settee backrest, the cabin house sides and side deck, and the adjoining curved galley layout meant there were few right angles to work with. Then the front panel was set in place and marked inside for the position of the locker shelves and dividers; one locker being left without a shelf for storage of bulky items such as pillows and blankets or as a video locker. Laminates are prone to chipping or cracking when cut like this unless they are well supported under the cutting edge. Cutting the laminate oversize makes alignment easier during cementing and reduces the chance of chipped edges intruding on the finished panel. When it was important that the edges of the laminate be smooth and straight, we clamped the laminate to a piece of plywood that acted as a cutting guide for a small router with a straight collared bit. Dont try cementing laminates without slats or dowel rods because the instant tenacious grip of contact cement gives you only one chance to position it correctly. All the interior locker plywood was given three coats of varnish to seal it and a 1 -inch-high teak fiddle glued to the front edge of the locker shelves. The exterior edges were trimmed in teak quarter round molding. Varnishing of doors and teak trim was done together after all other projects were completed. The old cabinets plywood doors were less high but slightly wider than the new doors so we removed the hinges and latches, epoxy-glued the doors in place, ground the thin teak trim flush, and cut out the correct hole size for the new doors. All five cabinet doorframes were later secured from inside with aluminum brackets so they could be easily removed for varnishing. The double bookshelf was given removable teak retainers as well as hooked elastic straps needed to keep books from sliding about in a seaway. Old fabric has been removed from side of berth prior to replacing with formica. Parts of the interior hull liner, such as the sides of the v-berth and quarter berth, were covered in a woven fabric resembling outdoor carpeting. Some people apparently like its appearance and sound-deadening qualities and it is cheap and easy to install. The edges here were likewise trimmed with teak quarter round molding. The way most liners are installed they make it impossible to reach many parts of the hull and extremely difficult to later add collision bulkheads within the hulls lower lockers where they are most needed. We converted this into a storage locker by cutting two large access holes in the top of the shelf and fitting them with removable latching doors and installing a plywood locker bottom. Teak louvered doors installed above starboard settee in place of original smaller plywood doors. Where more were needed, we added -inch thick (or thicker in places) strips of pine battens glued to the underside of the fiberglass deck and cabin trunk. Two more panels went above the quarter berth and one each side under the salon side decks. Unfortunately, this edge was so uneven that we had to remove some of it with a cutting disc on an angle grinder. At this point, a boat used in northern climates could be fitted with insulation material glued to the underside of the deck and cabin trunk between the battens. The edges of the panels were given countersink holes for #8 flathead stainless steel self-tapping screws. Backs and edges of the panels were then sealed with two coats of varnish. Pilot holes were drilled into the battens and the panels screwed in place. An extra electric drill dedicated to use with a screwdriver bit is useful here. Countersunk holes for #8 brass flathead screws were drilled along the centerline of the trim, spaced as needed for the trim to seat tight along the camber of the panels. Numbering the dozens of pieces before laying them out for varnishing avoids having an enormous puzzle to solve during final fitting. With everything going well thus far, it seemed only fair that we should find some challenging project to test our sanity. Another two weeks and the specialists came down to the boat with the precut counters. The first crew could not cut a straight line and the second crew could not shape a curved line. A week later, the master craftsman showed up and spent the entire afternoon cutting subtly curved lids to fit the unnecessary slight curves in the countertop cutouts. We then installed the counter lid ring pulls and the spout for the new galley foot pump that replaced the water-wasting pressure tap. On deck, a self-draining recessed anchor locker held the windlass under a hinged deck hatch. This lower chain locker had no drain or door between it and the forward cabin, allowing muddy water to splash onto the v-berth and the smells of the previous harbor bottom to permeate the cabin. At the bottom of the chain locker bulkhead we installed a mushroom thru-hull to a drain hose and shut-off valve accessible under one of the bilge access floorboards. Several production and amateur builders around the world also install their hatches backwards; the idea apparently being that you scoop less water and have less chance of breaking the hatch off if a wave rolls over the bow and catches the hatch in a partly open position. Where the teak was discolored we were able to restore its golden brown tone by light sanding or in a few areas with careful use of wood bleach. All bare wood was final sanded with 120-150 grit paper and cleaned with acetone before applying a first thinned coat of varnish. The numbered moldings were set on battens over covered bunks and on the floor for varnishing and then reassembled by the numbers. He has the table at home and if they find they miss it, he can install it later. The question arises as to whether it makes financial sense to put this much work and money into refurbishing an old boat when you will not recover much of that money during resale. If you are lucky enough to find a classic cruiser for sale that has already been refit in exactly the manner youre looking for, its worth paying a large premium to save the time and expense of doing the work yourself or hiring it done. Unfortunately, you may never find this ideal boat, recently outfitted exactly as you want. Often were committed to the boat we have for practical or emotional reasons. While tackling the difficult job of replacing the lexan in his salon windows, he realized he did not have time to run a busy mortgage business and simultaneously learn the skills to finish the numerous jobs necessary to get his boat set up for cruising in a reasonable time. With the headliners down it was a good opportunity to install added overhead lighting and enlarged dorade vents. Better to replace them while theyre down and the tools are out. If were going that far, nows the time to add some storage lockers in place of that unwanted pilot berth since the new headliners under the side deck can easily be shaped to fit around the new locker cabinets. Closer inspection after stripping and revarnishing some sample areas showed most of the teak veneer could be saved. The alternative of fitting laminate within the existing narrow bits of trim would not result in a satisfactory appearance. Port salon settee refinished and teak louvered doors and lockers replacing pilot berth. Since the owner had no plans for bunking six people at a time (six people living on a 31-foot boat?), the pilot berth above and outboard of the port salon settee, which extends to become a berth, became an obvious place to convert to storage lockers. Using a cardboard mock-up, we worked out a simple yet attractive and functional cabinet layout consisting of three lockers behind a single vertical panel with a narrow shelf between it and the settee backrest. Similar plywood comprised the new front panel cut to fit from the cardboard template. Three of the doorframes were set in position on the front panel, traced, and their mounting holes cut out. With the front panel again removed, the locker dividers and shelves were installed with 1-inch by 2-inch oak framing. We set up a makeshift cutting table on the dock using a half sheet of plywood supported by boxes. In any case, teak trim over all edges covers any corner chips or joints with less than perfect fit. The face of the plywood panel and back of the laminate were cleaned with acetone-wetted rags and coated with contact cement. Then the slats were pulled out one by one beginning in the center and working out toward the edges. Once glued, the panel was turned over and the laminate locked in place by hammering a cloth-covered block of wood slid slowly over the entire surface. With care, a belt sander or 50-grit sanding disc on an angle grinder can also be used for this work. Then the front panel was screwed into place from the back to its frames. The long narrow shelf between the settee backrest and the new cabinets received a -inch thick by 4-inch high teak fiddle rising 2 1/2 inches above the shelf counter. The other two teak louvered door sets were installed on the existing starboard locker cabinets at each end of the central bookshelves. Again, the teak corner moldings were fit and tacked in place with brass finishing nails. In cold climates there is some insulation value in its thin foam backing. Once we removed the old carpeting and its disintegrating foam backing, the fiberglass liner surface was washed with acetone and abraded with a course sanding disc. Bending the standard counter-grade laminate to conform to the slight curves on these surfaces presented no problem. Under the shelf was a 6 -foot-long void with a small access hole and a narrow slot open to another inaccessible area behind the battery box liner. The old headliner in the salon, forward cabin and quarter berth, was a textured vinyl glued onto a type of particleboard. Some of the original overhead plywood battens supporting the headliner were still useable. The battens were cut short enough to easily conform to the camber of the house and deck and glued in with epoxy resin thickened with talc powder to a putty-like consistency. Dont forget to clean all surfaces with acetone before applying the epoxy. The salon required four separate pieces to get through the companionway hatch, which we cut into eight pieces for easier fitting to the decks camber and to maintain maximum headroom for the boats 6-foot-tall owner. The outside edges of the headliner screwed onto the lip of the fiberglass hull liner. A tight-fitting respirator, safety goggles, and tyvek coveralls with hood were essential for this miserable portion of the job. The panels containing light fixtures or dorade vents now had those holes precut. The holes need to be close enough to the edge for 1-inch wide teak moldings to cover the screw heads. The finished panels were held in place with the adjustable brace topped by a small piece of plywood to spread the load. In places where screws needed to tap into the underside of the wood-cored fiberglass deck, a dab of polyurethane sealant was applied to the screw as it was driven in place. Once all the panels were in place, we measured for the teak molding trim that would cover all edges of the panels and their screw heads. To trim the many curved edges around the inside and outside perimeters of the panels required making paper templates and cutting the curved teak trim out of ripped -inch stock up to six inches wide. The exposed edges of the teak moldings were rounded with a router except where left square where they butted up against other trim. Where the camber was sharpest, the backs of the trim were thinned out with a router to allow easier bending. After the trim pieces were fit and their joints sanded flush, they were removed and numbered from behind along with corresponding numbers on the panel edges. I prepared the two countertops by removing the oven, the faucets, and the grotesque factory installed aluminum galley counter fiddles. Well have this wrapped up in two hours, the boss of the three-man crew assured me. We did keep the hot and cold pressure water system in place for the shower in the head and for a future owner to easily reconnect the galley sink tap, if desired. These fiddles had to be fixed in place strongly because they supported brackets for the heavy gimbaled propane range. Among the shrinking list of jobs left to complete was to install a sealed door on the anchor chain locker. The chain pipe below the windlass directs the anchor rode into the chain locker below. The existing cutout in the chain locker bulkhead made it simple to make a cardboard door pattern which was transferred to a piece of -inch plywood and cut to fit flush to the bulkhead. A rubber gasket was glued to the inside of the teak lip and the door secured with offset hinges along the bottom and a twist-latch door button at the top. We stripped the old varnish from bulkheads, teak trim and handrails, using scrapers kept fine-edged on a sharpening stone. Screw holes from old fittings no longer used and other isolated damage was repaired by drilling out and inserting teak bungs or patching in small strips of teak veneer. We used several different types of varnish for different areas, including satin for bulkheads and two-part polyurethane for maximum protection on high chafe areas such as galley fiddles. All teak was given 5-7 coats of varnish, generally with a light sanding between every second coat and before the final coat to fill the grain and get a smooth surface. Jeff decided to remove the massive folding-leaf salon table to open up the main salon. This would be discouraging if you were simply trying to make a profit or were pouring money into dressing up an old hound of dubious pedigree that will never suit your needs or make a capable and attractive cruising boat. Unless you are doing the work entirely by yourself and are an extremely resourceful materials scrounger, it usually pays to let the previous owner take the loss and go through the headaches of a refit. Or you may appreciate the satisfaction of working on your boat and gaining the knowledge and reassurance that comes with doing the job yourself. Tackling projects one by one as we can afford the time and expense is another sensible approach. In his case it did make sense to hire someone experienced in offshore cruising and boat building to speed up the process of getting cruise ready.

3 Ways To Remove Sticker Residue by wikihow.com

How you go about doing it, however, depends on how stubborn the residue is. Run your finger along the entirety of the residue, applying constant pressure. Otherwise you risk cutting grooves into the surface you’re trying to clean. Be careful using a knife or scissors on a glass or metal surface. Try using one of the other methods for removing residue on glass or metal. If the tape loses its stickiness before you’re finished, you can either rotate the ring or use a new length of tape. You can either use wet wipes from the cleaning supply aisle or sanitizing wipes. You might have to let the surface dry and rub a few more times to completely rid it of residue. Instead, try wrapping masking tape around your finger and pressing it against the glass. Pick a container, like a large bowl, which can hold your item along with a few cups of water. Don’t fill the container to the brim, or it will overflow when you insert your item. Using the example of a glass jar, make sure the sticker and residue are completely submerged. Dampen a cloth or rag, then rub until the residue comes off. If there’s still some residue tenaciously sticking to your surface, add vinegar to the bowl of water. Test the area to see if the sticker residue will come off a bit sooner, then you can soak more if necessary. Avoid using oily products on porous surfaces, and be careful about using corrosive products such as vinegar on metals and stone. Moisten a rag or cloth with alcohol and rub the surface vigorously. Letting some cooking oil soak into the sticky residue will allow you to remove it more easily. H owever, some will absorb the oil and cause a stain; avoid porous surfaces such as wood or cloth. Wait a few minutes for the oil to soak into the sticky residue. Once the sticker residue has come off, wipe away the excess paste with a paper towel. Make sure you dilute the vinegar in a bit of water to get the best solution. If you’re not sure what product to use on a particular surface, peanut butter is a safe choice. Wipe off the peanut butter; the majority of the residue should come off with it. Apply a light coat (so it doesn’t run or drip), let it sit overnight, and then just rub it off. Try soaking a cotton ball with baby oil, and then gently rubbing the sticky patch. For particularly stubborn stickers, try soaking the residue in a mixture of water and soap for 30 minutes before rubbing it off. Just mix 2 tablespoons of cooking oil with 3 tablespoons of baking soda to form a paste. This is more effective if the residue is fresh and not too resilient. The residue will roll into balls that you can easily pluck off the surface. If you’re using something sharp, make sure to align the blade flat against the surface. Ensure the tape makes a tight ring around your index and middle finger with the sticky side facing out. Notice the residue sticking to the tape, and repeat until you’ve lifted off as much residue as possible. This method works best with items like glass jars, which can be soaked and submerged without being damaged. Combine dishwashing detergent with hot water and fill your container. Over this half hour, the glue will dissolve and the residue should come off easily. After soaking for half an hour, whatever residue is left shouldn’t be particularly difficult to remove. Whatever residue remains will already be softened after soaking, and will easily come off with vinegar. Some of the household products used in this method might irritate the skin. If you’re working on a table or countertop, make sure to cover it in newspaper before proceeding. The right product depends on the surface you’re cleaning as well as the amount of residue you need to remove. This is likely your best choice, as it doesn’t leave any residue, dries quickly and it’s best at neutralizing sticky residue. Avoid sweet alcohols like rum as they can leave their own stickiness behind. After about 15 seconds of rubbing, check the surface to see how much residue is left. Because it lacks strong chemicals, it can be ideal for more sensitive surfaces. If you’re unsure, test the oil on a small, inconspicuous spot of your surface. Baking soda mixed with cooking oil will form a paste that you can use to remove sticker residue from a surface. The baking soda and oil will take off the sticker residue without scratching the surface. You can store any unused paste in a plastic bag and use it another time. While it requires a bit more effort than alcohol, dabbing sticker residue with vinegar will make it easier to rub off. Avoid using vinegar on marble, stone, aluminum or cast iron. Moisten a rag or cloth with vinegar and rub the surface vigorously. A safe alternative to many acidic products, the oiliness of peanut butter is great for removing sticky residue. Spread peanut butter onto the sticky surface and let it sit for 15 minutes. It’s safe to use on many surfaces, but tends to leave an oily residue behind. They’ll tell you what surfaces the product is safe for in addition to how to use it. Test a small area first if you are worried about damaging the surface. If some won’t come off, apply more oil and let it sit until it does. Leave it on for a few minutes and then gently wipe it away with a wet cloth. If you don’t have any vinegar, you can also use cooking oil or rubbing alcohol, depending on the surface.

Can Wash Mop Sink Can Wash Mop Sink Suppliers and Manufacturers At Alibaba by alibaba.com

Experience: 15 years manufacturing experience, exported to more than 107 countries. Guaranteeing stable and timely supply, credible quality and sincere service, our products sell well in both domestic and overseas markets. For the mirror, each piece wrapped with carton inside, 10 pcs with wood crate outside. About 96% of these are bathroom sinks, 1% are kitchen sinks. You can also choose from countertop sinks, bowl sinks / vessel basins, and pedestal sinks. And whether can wash mop sink is mop sinks, or shampoo sinks.

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