The Counters Blog

The side cabinet to the left of the washer does not measure up with the units, bummer. The trim at the door is 31 3/4″ to the back corner of the space. The leverage applied to the brackets would most likely overwhelm the brackets and unless the bracket came out to near the front of the shelf/countertop, the leverage applied to the screws holding the countertop to the brackets would likely not withstand the forces applied, at least for long. Since it is above the washer and dryer, you can expect (even if the owner claims it won’t happen) that baskets full of clothes will get dropped onto the counter. The screws will have to be able to overcome this, for many years to come.Leverage is a great means to apply a lot of force in one place using much less force in another. Use a nice sheet of 3/4 plywood (not particleboard, you want a nice smooth finish) on each side with possible 1×6 supports(or larger boards depending on the gap sizes) between the washer dryer. I can see why you like the look of the enclosure, very nice. That could be the reason for the clearance, as if any plumber can fit in a 18″ space above and dryer and work on it. I am hoping that my post will help bring this back to the top and the list so that more current viewers might jump in. I am sooo tired of going up and down those basement stairs to do laundrey.I am stacking the washer and dryer in the new location in the basement (washer on the bottom and dryer on the top). We measured and decided that we need a countertop of 60 5/8 inches in length and 31 inches deep. We don’t know if we are supposed to attach the countertop to the wall or if we are supposed to attach it to wood legs? What to do with the two inch gap on the side where the new counter top will not meet flush with the existing countertop. So how much space total do you have between the counter in place and the wall and how much space do the washer and dryer take up in that space? And they are 31″ deep from the front panel to the wall, including room for hoses. It is 25 1/2 deep and so it has always been set back farther than the units. You would place them at the ends and one in between the appliances. Take the side cabinet and build up the base so it’s even with the counter top. Shelf brackets are not going to hold up a 30″ deep countertop. Then realize that what any one of the members typically sees is only a small percentage of what the mod and admin have already removed. Gallon, or even larger jugs of laundry chemicals will get set on it. It increases in such a ratio the further you get away from the wall all the way up to the fulcrum. If you place a support all the way to the front, 10 pounds of weight on the front causes no up lift and it produces 10 pounds of pressure, spread out along the length of the support, on the floor. If you have a built in dishwasher this could serve as an illustration. It says that the gas dryer needs at least 18″ of space above it. I would think the manufacturer would know best about the dryer and the needed clearances. This way you can pull the dryer out into the room to work on it. Anyway, we live in a house that is separated into apartments.

How To Support A Granite Countertop Over A Washer and Dryer? by houzz.com

How to support a granite countertop over a washer and dryer? I have a front loading washer and dryer, and want to put a granite countertop on it. Will 3cm granite span over each appliance (about 29″)? Therefore there would be a support on all 3 walls, and in the middle – between the washer and dryer. We have separated the washer and dryer so there would be a shelf in the middle.

Under Counter Dryer Install by shopyourway.com

Most models require 1″ of clearance on each side and 4″ of clearance in back of the dryer. If you are interested in a particular model and need more help, reply with the model number of the dryer and additional details. You bring up a good point about access to the exhaust vent connection in back of the dryer. Leaving at least 1″ of clearance above the dryer is recommended as well. If the dryer is installed in a closed or enclosed space, there are additional clearance restrictions and air ventilation requirements. Do you have any trouble moving that dryer out with only one inch of clearance at the top? If you need more help, reply with additional details and an updated model number.

I Absolutely Adore The Countertop Installed Above The Washer and Dryer. and by indulgy.com

I absolutely adore the countertop installed above the washer and dryer.

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Tile Countertop Cover Shelf Over Washer And Dryer, Building Instructions | Duration 12 Minutes 7 Seconds It’s on a pulley, so that you can lower it to put your clothes on it, and raise it again while they dry. Cabinet in corner and curtain rod for hanging clothes that don’t go in dryer.

{Diy With Style} DIY Wood Plank Laundry Room Countertop by blueistyleblog.com

The thin gray-ish line you see at the top is just the raw edge of the vinyl plank on the top of the counter. If you wish to feature one of my projects, feel free to share a single photo (no collaged images, or images with text overlays) as long as the no pin code is used to prevent my image from being pinned from your site. Creating with my suggested methods, products used, and tools is at your own risk. Just wondering what you did for the front edge of the counter, where the top meets the edging?

Ideas For Hiding The Washer and Dryer by drivenbydecor.com

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Diy Laundry Room Countertop Over Washer Dryer From Removeandreplace.Com Our washer and dryer are in a recessed niche as you walk through the short hall that connects the guest room to the rest of the house. I would guess that the valves are hidden in the cabinetry above the washer in some of the images and hidden behind some of the decorative accessories in others. I think it would be a pain to have to open them and then open the doors to the washer and dryer. I would much rather do the curtains – easy to leave open and out of the way. What did you decide to do and have you been happy with it? The next owner converted the office into a guest room and knocked down walls to connect the house and the old office. So yes, our guests walk right by the washer and dryer every time they are coming and going from their room. I just bought one over the weekend and this is the first thing she started talking about wanting to do to it. In my experience, the outlet is usually low and would be hidden but the water shutoff valves are not. But you could always throw a plant or some other accessory in front of it if you don’t want to see it! Unless you did a cabinet door that could open and then slide back out of the way.Monogram appliances, gold accents, and gorgeous floors!

How To Support 55″ Countertop Span by homerefurbers.com

However, i would set it up and “mock” the span and such to see if you will have to much. I chose to use face frames to match an existing cabinet in the room. Is it even necessary to add extra support (between the wall and cabinet is 55”). They are built to be rigid, so, there may not need to be any support between the spans since you are supporting it on the sides and the back.If so, the best way would be to put something between the washer/dryer. The face frame was joined with pocket screws, and attached to the carcass with pocket screws.

Washer and Dryer Tabletop by community.homedepot.com

I would have to imagine such a table (or top) might be pretty heavy and expensive. I really like the door idea, but the restriction here is the standard 80″ door height that may or may not fit the area you want. The door concept will work well if it fits, but you could make a table top out of plywood, particle board or mdf easily enough. In addition, you could also buy melamine covered boards and splice them together to get the desired depth. Any materials that’s used for countertops can be used to provide a work surface over a washer and dryer. Kitchen cabinet counter tops are typically 24″ deep, while washers and dryers are around 30″ to 33″ deep.

IHeart Organizing: Laundry Room Update: Lowering Hookups and Installing A Counter by iheartorganizing.com

Our eyesores are still out in the open and our only option at this point is trying to hide them. I really like yours, it is simple, functional and yet it will be pretty as well, once you finish it. My plan is to run the extra deep counter about 12 feet long.I do the same thing with clutter on top of my front loaders to hide the hook-ups. Wondering if you have wiped down the interior of the cabinet, or if you’ve experienced any of the paint bubbling that they listed. Our house was built in 1903 with short ceiling and practically dirt floors. I would love to do wallpaper as well but we have orange peel textured walls so not sure how that works with wallpaper! I re-did our dark basement laundry area several years ago, covering the bare basement walls with white pegboard, re-painting our old kitchen cabinets (recycled after a remodel), adding countertops and lots of lighting. I think it will be fine but some people think it might be too tall. I will be sure to update this post if our experience changes over time. Any ideas how to make it pretty and organized in such an unpleasant place. Thanks for the step by step- you did alllll the thinking for us! If your pieces overhang the way our center piece did, pocket holes are definitely an alternative option. This blog is my happy place, let’s keep the drama at bay!