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How To Refinish Kitchen Cabinets

Planning and updating kitchen cabinets can produce a remarkable kitchen makeover in a few days over a long weekend. Newspapers, a canvas-style drop cloth, or other material to protect adjacent surfaces while working. Get the best brush you can afford—these may seem the same in the store, but the difference in brush strokes and quality of finish is striking. Most shelves simply lift off of pegs or supports; some may need to be unscrewed or pried off their supports. Amy Howard Kitchen Makeover How To Paint And Distress Kitchen Cabinets | Duration 7 Minutes 18 Seconds Remove the screws, being careful not to slip and damage the channel, making it impossible to unscrew. Lightly sand any rough areas of bubbled or peeling paint or varnish, then sand entire surfaces until they are smooth and even. When done sanding, wipe the wood with a tack cloth (to remove all dust particles) and let dry. Sometimes, in their haste for a nifty new kitchen, people would just slop a coat of paint over everything in sight, including the hardware. When the time’s up, carefully remove the hardware, and peel off the paint. Leave for 10 minutes, then scrape the gel with a plastic putty knife. Buff with a beeswax polish to protect the surface, and repeat every 6 months. This is a much bigger project and will take more than a long weekend. Denatured alcohol dissolves a shellac finish and latex paint. The question has been asked 1, 000 times, whether it’s ok to paint latex over oil, or oil over latex. This is the big moment, when you transform your kitchen from dull and dingy to hip and modern. Always brush in one direction, and don’t lay it on too thick. Don’t be afraid to just pry a little bit on the front to remove them. If you are spraying the final paint/varnish coat, be sure all cabinet doors are lying flat and out of the area of “spray dust”. Natural bristle brushes generally give better results with oil-based products, while nylon or polyester brushes are good for latex based finishes. If you are only re-applying a new coat of varnish, you can probably get away with not removing the doors from the cabinet frames. How To Distress Without Damaging Your Kitchen Cabinets From House Painting Info.Com | Duration 7 Minutes 6 Seconds The best way to hang cabinet doors vertically is to screw a cup hook into the top or bottom of the cabinet door (the narrow edge) and hang them from a supported structure. Fumes from degreasers and bonding agents can be strong, be sure and keep air fresh and circulated. Fill any dents, chips, and nicks with wood putty, then sand own the putty once it’s dry to create a smooth surface. For tips from our contracting reviewer on how to strip existing paint or stain off the cabinets, keep reading! Refinishing your kitchen cabinets is a good way to liven up your living space and increase the value of your home. We’ll give you a basic overview of refinishing kitchen cabinets, and clues on where to start. Organize your project so that all materials and tools can be assembled before you get started. Quality paint brushes or a sprayer suitable for the finish you plan to use. If the screws are caked with old paint, clean out the channel with the tip of a knife or small screwdriver. Lay out the cabinet doors in a grid on the floor so it’s easy to tell their proper places. Any grease remaining on the surfaces will interfere with refinishing. Take your time with this step—the results will be well worth the extra effort. If the finish you are working with is an oil base product, you may dampen a cloth with mineral spirits or paint thinner, rather than water, which will allow it to dry much more rapidly. Unless you’re replacing the hardware, cleaning it will help give your cabinets a fresher look. You have wisely chosen to restore that hardware to it’s old glory. If you’re in a hurry, a solution of methylene chloride will strip the paint much faster, but it may also strip other finishes. Apply directly to the hardware in a well-ventilated area while wearing neoprene safety gloves and eye protection. Immediately clean off the hardware with a stiff toothbrush—otherwise the paint will start to harden again. Do it in spring and summer, when you change your smoke alarm batteries! Liquid strippers work best, but look for gel or semi-paste types because they won’t drip as much when used on vertical surfaces. Lacquer thinner dissolves a lacquer, polyurethane, or shellac finish. Wipe the wood with a tack cloth (to remove all dust particles) and let dry. An exception to this would be applying water-based products over oil-based. The answer depends on who you ask, but the bottom line is this: properly prepped, you can paint anything over anything. The biggest drawback is that you have to mask everything in sight that is not going to be painted, as aerosol paint spray will get everywhere. Using a high-quality brush, apply new paint (or varnish) within the time limit specified in the directions. If you are re-varnishing kitchen or bathroom cabinets, consider a marine varnish which is more water repellent. You may have to strip and replace the veneer, or hire someone to put up new fronts. Otherwise, you’ll have to replace (or do a lot of sanding to get rid of old varnish). Choose a suitable brush for the type of finish you plan to use. Polyurethane varnishes add an amber tone to wood while waterborne varnishes add no color. Hang cabinet doors vertically while drying to avoid dust from settling on them. You can also try leaving the cabinet doors on and masking off the hinges to protect them as you work. It is best to be committed to this project so that you don’t have “open faced” cabinets for years. Many paint strippers and solvents can be extremely flammable, so read precautions on their original containers. Clean the cabinets and hardware thoroughly, as any grease on the surface will interfere with the refinishing.

How To Refinish Kitchen Cabinets Without Stripping • DIY Projects and Videos by ronhazelton.com

So if your cabinets look something like this and well, it’s not time to replace or reface them yet, then you might want to consider refurbishing them with a combination coating and stain. Kitchen cabinets invariably accumulate cooking oil on their surfaces, especially those near the stove. On a project like this, the purpose of the sanding is to give the existing finish, a bit of tooth just to roughen it a bit so the new finish will be able to grip or bond better. These cabinets have some really serious wear spots where not only the finish, but also the color is gone. These come in a variety of wood tones and are used just like a felt marker. It’s very common for the pigments in a material like this, to settle to the bottom of the can. When properly mixed, the stirring stick should come out clean. I load my brush with finish and begin by coating the details in the panel. I almost always finish off with long, straight parallel strokes in one direction, a technique painters call, striking off. With time and repeated cleanings, they can end up looking pretty shabby. But with time and repeated cleanings, well, they can end up looking pretty shabby. A touch up pen like this can help restore some of this missing color. I let the color dry for a few seconds, then wipe off the excess and blend in the edges. Now you want to avoid shaking finishes like this because it introduces air bubbles into the liquid that can end up as p inholes on the surface when the coating dries. The key is to put down a smooth, even film and not to overbrush.

How To Go From Stained Cabinets To Antiqued Ones by homeguides.sfgate.com

Remove the doors and drawers and unscrew all the hardware with a screwdriver. Let the sealer dry, then give it a light sanding with 220-grit sandpaper and apply one finish coat that is compatible with the glaze you’re using. Distress the wood, if desired, by tapping it with a hammer or hitting it with a chain. Mix a quart of clear glaze with paint that is two or three tones darker than the stain. Mix them in equal parts to get a subtle darkening effect or mix 3 parts paint to 1 part glaze for a more dramatic effect. Brush the glaze onto one part of the cabinet with a stiff paintbrush. You can wipe in a circular motion or with the grain, and any glaze that you leave on will provide the antiquing effect. Use your creativity; if you aren’t happy with the results, you can always wipe off all the glaze before it dries and start over. When the glaze dries, apply one more coat of clear finish to protect the glaze. Test the glaze color on a small area and keep adjusting the paint/glaze proportion, adding water if necessary, until you’re happy with the color. To complete the procedure, you can apply a glaze, distress the wood or do both. If the cabinet has a finish, there’s no need to remove it before glazing. It’s best to distress before you glaze, because the glaze settles into the nicks and gouges and highlights them. If you haven’t finished it yet, you need to apply at least one coat of finish or sealer to act as a substrate for the glaze. Lay the doors and drawers out on a flat surface and set the hardware aside. Seal the cabinet by brushing on a coat of water- or solvent-based sanding sealer. For example, use a water-based finish of the glaze is water-based. You can also gouge and scratch the wood with a sharp object and create burn marks with a cigarette or a wood-burning tool. Mix the two in proportion to how dark you want the glaze to appear. Glaze all parts of the cabinet, including the doors and drawers, in the same way. As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies.

How To Distress Cabinets With Pictures by wikihow.com

If the cabinet is attached to the wall, cover your floors and counters with a painter’s cloth or a cheap, plastic tablecloth. This method is suitable for painted, varnished, and unpainted cabinets. Consider taping the screws to their corresponding hinges, knobs, and handles.

How To Distress/Antique Look Cabinets For Cheap | Duration 11 Minutes 43 Seconds This is necessary for painted, varnished, and even unpainted cabinets. These areas will eventually get the stain, so the more you sand, the more weathered your cabinet will look. This includes glass paneling and the edges of the walls around your cabinets. This will open up the wood grain and help the stain and/or paint to soak in better. Most paints will dry to the touch and be ready for another coat in 30 minutes to 2 hours. It will smooth down any brush strokes, and remove the excess wax or petroleum jelly. You can also use a steel wool pad to rub at the areas with the wax/petroleum jelly. Next, rub the glaze onto the cabinet using a small, circular motion. Wipe the glaze up and down or side-to-side to get a lined look. After this stage, allow your cabinets to dry before adding a topcoat. You don’t want to the two coats meshing together and marring your artwork. How long the coats take to dry will depend on the sealer itself. If you don’t let your work cure properly, you’ll get a sticky, tacky, gummy finish. This means that until they fully cure, the sealer will be sticky. Once the sealer is fully dry and/or cured, you can replace the hinges, knobs, and handles. You won’t be doing any painting, but you will be doing quite a lot of sanding. If you can’t, consider placing a painter’s cloth down on the floor for easy cleanup. If the knobs or handles are made out of wood, consider leaving them on so that you can weather them too. If you left the handles or knots on, give them a give buff with the sandpaper too. Get out your vacuum cleaner, and vacuum the floor of your work area. This will help give your cabinet that distinctive weathered look. Focus on the cracks and corners where dust and dirt are most likely to collect. This will not only re-seal the paint, but also help protect the raw edges you just uncovered through sanding. Use small, circular motions to “massage” the wax into the cabinet. Glue it onto the cabinet door using wood glue; use a piece of tape to hold it in place as it dries. Be sure to leave a window open or have a fan on if you can’t work outside. For best results, avoid working when the weather is too humid. Then, use a cloth to rub a stain or glaze into the surface of the wood, adding more layers until you’re satisfied with the color. When you’re finished, apply a few coats of acrylic or latex paint. To learn how to distress cabinets that are already painted, scroll down! If you crave the look of an old farmhouse kitchen without having to tackle that large of a project, distressing your existing cabinets may be your solution. If your cabinet is a standalone piece, try to move it outside. Move anything that might get stained by paint to a safer place. It roughs up the surface and gives the stain and paint something to stick to. If you are working on a painted or varnished cabinet, keep sanding the until the raw wood starts to show. If your cabinets are in the kitchen, consider using an ammonia-based household cleaner or a degrease to get rid of any oil residue. Any dust that remains will get into your stain and/or paint, and mar the surface. Not only will you be keeping these areas safe and clean, but you’ll also get nice, crisp lines later on. Consider going over the cabinet with a steel wire brush first. It is better to apply many thin coats than one thick coat; it will give you the smoothest finish and lessens the appearance of brushstrokes. When you are done, vacuum your floor up and wipe the cabinet down with a tack cloth. If you really want to give your cabinets that old look, you’ll need some antiquing glaze. You don’t need a lot—a small amount will go a long way. Let the glaze dry for the time specified by the manufacturer’s directions. Once the cabinet is covered in glaze, you can smooth out the circular marks with a clean rag. If you’d like to darken the edges or small corners, apply the glaze using a small brush. With a rag wrapped around your finger, wipe away any glaze that’s inadvertently gotten in places you wish it weren’t. All the rags you’ve used should be washed together but separate from your other linens in your washing machine in case the glaze stains. Avoid using polyurethane, if you can, as those tend to yellow over time. Most sealers will dry within 2 to 3 hours, but you might want to refer to the label for more specific drying times. During this time, you will want to leave the cabinets open so that they don’t “glue shut. Keep going until some of the raw wood starts to show though. It’s okay if some parts of the edges and corners still have paint on them. Focus on the areas that will get the more wear, sure such the edges. This will help “blend” in the initial weathering you did on the edges. If you don’t do this, the dust will get into the wax in the next steps, which may result in a messy finish rather than a weathered one. Start by applying a small amount of wax onto the tips of a large, short-bristled brush. Work in small areas at a time, and pick up more wax with your brush as needed. Add a piece of decorative molding before you apply the stain. Treat it as part of the cabinet when you move on to sanding, staining, glazing, and painting. If you start to feel lightheaded or get a headache, take a break and move to a well-ventilated area until you feel better. Next, apply petroleum jelly to the parts of the cabinets you want to distress, focusing on the corners and edges since these are the places that usually weather first. Finally, once the paint is dry, apply 3 coats of sealer to finish your cabinets.

How To Distress Your Kitchen Cabinets by doityourself.com

Distressing a cabinet is basically taking something new or unfinished and making it look like it is old. Removing the actual cabinets is not always easy or possible, so you will have to do the frames where they are. You can achieve stunning result if one color is dark and the other color is light. Paint the kitchen cabinets with this second color and allow it to dry for a day before you move forward. Use the sandpaper to wear down areas around the knobs of the kitchen cabinets down to the bottom layer of paint. Make sure you sand down sharp edges so they appear more rounded. Use the keys to makes scratches and shallow dents, us e the drill to make wormholes, and use the padlock or hammer to create deeper dings and dents. Some people prefer to leave out this last part and only use the sanding method of distressing. Start with a single coat of varnish, which you will apply with your paintbrush. Attach the doors and enjoy your distressed kitchen cabinets. If you’re a fan of antiqued wood, consider distressing your cabinets. This article will explain how to easily distress your kitchen cabinets. Use the sandpaper to remove the layers of paint on both the doors and the frames. Essentially you will be painting the entire cabinet this color for the specific purpose of allowing it to show through. After you finish this layer, you will have to wait at least 12 hours for it to dry. Repeat this same method of distressing around areas that would see the most use, like the edges opposite of the hinges. Now use your other implements of distressing to create more character. No two cabinets will look exactly the same so have a lot of fun distressing the cabinets until you make them your own. Allow the top coat of varnish to dry before you apply a second coat.

Distressed and Antiqued Kitchen Cabinets by hgtv.com

Glaze dries slowly, so there is usually time to clean up an accidental mark, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. Using a sanding block wrapped in 80-grit sandpaper, sand the raised edges and corners of each cabinet door and opening. Once the entire front or side of a cabinet has been covered in glaze, use a clean area of your rag and a very light touch to smooth out all the circular marks. It’s all right to apply the glaze liberally in these places because some of it will be removed in the next step of the process. When finished, let the glaze dry for at least 24 hours before sealing it. Chalkboard paint and an easy-to-apply stenciled detail will transform them into a unique accessory for any kitchen. Add cottage-style charm to white painted cabinets by distressing them and then applying an antiquing glaze. Let the cabinets dry completely before moving on to the next step. Put on a pair of rubber gloves and wipe cabinet faces with a damp rag to remove the surface dirt. Begin applying the glaze to the front or side of one cabinet in small, circular motions until you’ve covered the entire section. It’s better to start with too little glaze rather than too much. Add a small amount of antiquing glaze to a smooth, clean rag. Using a small brush, add more antiquing glaze to the distressed parts of the cabinets and doors. Wrap a smooth, clean rag around your index finger and carefully wipe off any excess glaze that’s accumulated outside of the distressed spots that were created when the cabinet’s edges were darkened. Make sure to stand back every now and then to ensure the overall effect is consistent.

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