We have spotted gum cladding as a main feature, plus large steel structure in ferrodor natural grey that has a corten rusty steel laser-cut screen in it.
Consider the aspect too though – you will see more underlying colour coming through any grey that you select if the wall is on a north or west aspect.
Whites get twice as dark when they are horizontal and used on eaves but you also need to go a little darker than you think here as they will get dirty!
What about up in the peaks where backboard is cream and burgundy timber trims.
Our house is two storey with render at the bottom and vertical cladding at the top.
Should we go white exterior walls or a light neutral grey or greige?
I don’t want to put you off as you won’t have a lilac house but you need to be aware of this.
Have you painted large boards with both samples and looked around the exterior from different aspects?
We are building a very modern style two story house with a grand entrance.
It will have mid/dark-grey marble tiles (800mm x 800mm) on one side of the external entrance next to the front door, going up to about 3 metres in height.
A good local colour consultant would easily be able to replicate this for you and would be well worth the investment to get it right – half the battle is seeing something that you love and a good consultant would be able to make it work in your setting.
I am keen to have a colour that is closer to what the colour cards represent and was wondering if you would have any suggestions as to what colour would more closely match the colour cards.
The bottom floor has a nice warm grey and goes well with the lighter grey on the top floor.
Otherwise if you use this as inspiration a good local colour consultant will be able to get the look for you.
They will certainly be warm off white neutrals outside but not too yellow.
Remember too that with weatherboards you get a lovely natural shadow line which will make the overall look different too and adds some contrast to the frame.
I feel the full strength shale grey is too grey for me but do you think the half strength will look too washed out?
If you have weatherboards, this too makes a difference as you can often get away with a lighter tone as the boards give a natural shadow line.
Our about to be painted house has a rendered exterior with large gable ends, which are weatherboards (south facing) sitting over the top of a surfmist garage door.
I have added a large exterior wall which has a large expanse of solid wall and then wall and pickets at the front, it is a corner block.
I can’t see it, but am worried we will see it more over a large surface.
Is there a guideline for (render) walls and eaves for exteriors.
I have woodland grey colourbond roof and burgundy and cream trimmings.
I am really struggling to get the right grey for the exterior.
A greige with a touch of grey/brown/neutral green will work the best.
A bit time consuming but a great way to see whether you are making the right choice.
Perhaps a local colour consultant could give you some advice?
I am worried double strength will look cream which we don’t want.
However it is important that you try out samples on the elevations as a north aspect will be different to a southerly one.
Depending upon the amount of sun though you may not see much difference at all and this is where you will need to look at the samples in situ.
Do you think it would be all too bland or would the shadows of the weatherboards add interest anyway plus the fact the sheen level will be lower than the gloss on the timber windows?
I have decided on a colourbond shale grey roof & gutters & colourbond s urfmist facias.
I have tried sample pots in shale grey & half strength shale grey for the main house colour.
Colours usually appear lighter when they are on the entire house too.
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The last couple of years it has been use to deliver cars using a one ton dually.
It was last used for asphalt late models but would be great for drag racing or off road events.
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