The Counters Blog

Installation



We recommend using a white adhesive to show the true color of the glass, if a grey adhesive is used the color of the adhesive will show through the tile. We also recommend offsetting the sheets from row to row to prevent the appearance of seams. It is important to wait the interval recommended by the adhesive manufacturer before grouting to minimize dirt ingress between the squares and avoid the opportunity for dislodging. The glass can be cleaned with a neutral mild detergent, or glass cleaner.

The use of metal lathing is recommended for larger heavier stones to ensure maximum support of the structure. Particular attention must be paid to carrying the membrane up the wall, outside shower boxes, installation of bond breakers and sealing around penetrations. Most thinset mortars (multi purpose and polymer modified thinsets) are adequate for installing natural stones. It is very important that each stone is embedded in the adhesive. Before applying sealant, wash the tiles and let dry for 24-48 hours. Failure to allow tiles to dry completely before application will result in permanent discolorations.

All natural stones are porous and have different levels of water absorption and therefore staining may occur in different degrees if the stone is left unsealed. For tiles in high traffic areas keep surfaces clean from abrasive dirt. This variation is considered to be a desired feature in the product and adds to the three- dimensional look. A professional installer should always be consulted to discuss the specific parameters surrounding your project. Most thinset mortars (multi purpose and polymer modified thinsets) are adequate for installing stone tile. The use of a rubber mallet may be required to gently tap the tiles into place. Stay ¼” away from the perimeter edge of the tile when doing this. This process will ensure that the individual cubes will adhere to the surface and guarantee longevity of the product in a wet application. If small cracks or seams exist in between the cubes, a non-sanded grout similar in color to the stone can be used to fill the gaps. As pebbles are a natural product, no two pieces will be exactly alike.

This variation is considered to be a desired feature in the product. The use of reinforced waterproof mem branes is suggested, and in the case of floors, a fall to the drainage point of no less than two inches. Most thinset mortars (multi purpose and polymer modified thinsets) are adequate for installing pebbles.

It is very important that each pebble is embedded in the adhesive. It is important to wait the interval recommended by the adhesive manufacturer before grouting to minimize dirt ingress between the pebbles and avoid the opportunity for dislodging of the pebbles. During this process, it is also recommended that, if necessary, the excess grout is carved from the edge of the pebbles by use of an appropriate knife. Do not use abrasive cleaners, powders, scouring pads, steel wool or sandpaper. Foil will blacken if moisture penetrates the backing of the individual tiles. Most thinset mortars with a latex additive (multi purpose and polymer modified thinsets) are adequate for installing glass. Where slight movement could occur through thermal or pedestrian loads, a modified cement adhesive should be used as a minimum.

The glass comes with a plastic front or mesh back which can easily be cut with a utility knife. The mesh back or plastic front can easily be cut with a utility knife. Set the tile in place, gently tapping it in with a grout float to ensure 100% adhesive coverage.

Grouts are ordinarily a water mix but where some flexibility may be needed, a latex additive or similar product should be used. In the event that one desires to better expose the individual glass pieces, it is suggested that during the grouting process, the installer repeatedly removes the excess grout from the joints by the use of a medium bristle brush and sponge. Any spills should be cleaned quickly to lessen the degree of the stain to the grout. Do not let soap, bleach or other cleaning solutions set on the surface. Suggested applications include interior and exterior feature walls, water features, fireplaces, and entertainment areas. The use of reinforced waterproof membranes is suggested, and in the case of floors, a fall to the drainage point of no less than two inches. A bonding agent is always recommended for larger heavier stones.

To make sure there is 100% coverage you can tap the stones into the adhesive with a rubber mallet. This will ensure that moisture is not pr esent under the surface of the tile. We recommend testing all sealants on a single tile before application. Consequently, any spills should be cleaned quickly to lessen the degree of the stain. Because these tiles are made from natural stone, it is not unusual to find occasional flaws, veining, or variations of color within the tile.

Painted surfaces must be scuffed or sanded for the product and adhesive to bond correctly.

It is very important to make sure the tiles fit tightly together. When using these tiles in a wet application, it is recommended that you lightly score the back of the tiles diagonally in a grid pattern with a masonry grinder. In addition, it will be necessary to back-butter the product with the flat edge of a trowel. You can change the look and color of the stones depending on the sealer you select, ranging from color enhancement, to different levels of gloss finishes, or just leaving them natural.

The porosity or water absorption in these products varies and therefore staining will occur in different degrees if the stone is unsealed. During manufacturing, pebbles are hand sorted into matching colors and sizes and individually glued onto a mesh backing. It is not unusual to find occasional flaws, veins, and lines of separation within the pebbles. It is strongly recommended that membrane systems be used in all wet areas. Some pebbles may need to be removed and replaced by hand to make the installation look more seamless. As there are no straight lines in the product, when approaching a straight edge the last row of pebbles can be removed from the mesh and adjusted by hand. The use of a gray thinset mortar may be desired if you are using the dark pebbles, and a white thinset for lighter colors. To make sure there is 100% coverage, tap the sheets into the adhesive gently with a rubber float and try to avoid having the thinset come up from in between the pebbles. Sanded grout is generally recommended for any grout joint larger than 1/8”. In the event that one desires to better expose the pebbles, it is suggested that during the grouting process, the installer repeatedly removes the excess grout from the joints by the use of a medium bristle brush and sponge.

You can change the look and color of the stones depending on the sealer you select ranging from color enhancement, to different levels of gloss finishes, or just leaving them natural. The porosity or water absorption in pebbles varies and therefore staining will occur in different degrees if the stone is left unsealed. Particular attention must be paid to: carrying the membrane up the wall, outside shower boxes, installation of bond breakers, and sealing around penetrations. We do not recommend one brand of adhesive over another. The manufacturer’s literature will explain if the adhesive product is suitable for interiors and/or exteriors, as well as walls and floors. A cement-based adhesive is generally suitable on masonry substrates where no movement is anticipated.

Set the tile in place gently tapping it in with a grout float to ensure 100% adhesive coverage.

Non-sanded grout is generally recommended for any grout joint 1/8” or smaller. It is important to wait the interval recommended by the adhesive manufacturer before grouting to minimize dirt ingress between the squares and avoid the opportunity for dislodging.

How To Soundproof A Room by familyhandyman.com

It’s fast and easy to build, lightweight and makes the most of inexpensive materials. This article will show you how to make these walls (and ceilings) block sound better. This straightforward how to make your room soundproof project doesn’t require specialized tools or high-level construction skills. The room might be a place that you want to keep sound out of—a home office, for example. We won’t show you how to block noise coming from outside since most exterior walls already block sound fairly well. Fine-threaded screws grab on to resilient channel better than the coarse-threaded versions. But unless your home has a forced-air heating/cooling system, you may also create an air-quality problem. But in some cases, it could become unhealthful, especially for those with asthma or chemical sensitivities. By making the duct from fiberglass duct board and offsetting the grilles, you create a “sound trap” that allows air to pass between rooms. But they’re the sound-control equivalent of major surgery, and you should consider two other options before you go ahead: 1.

Like air, sound passes through the smallest cracks and holes. Remove outlets, switches and fixtures from their boxes (turn off the power first), and seal the holes inside the boxes with silicone sound proof caulk. It’s low-cost, low-hassle and effective—and if you don’t get the results you want, you haven’t wasted much time or money. The insulation should completely fill each cavity without open gaps or pockets.

Wear gloves, a dust mask and eye protection when working with fiberglass. The plywood simply provides a solid backing for nailing on door casing and baseboard later on. Don’t forget to stuff sound dampening insulation into the gaps around door jambs. Put fiberglass insulation in this wall and its rating rises to 39. Cover one side of the insulated wall with resilient channel and 5/8-in. At this point you wouldn’t hear the conversation at all—unless they started shouting.

Attach the whisper clips in a staggered fashion to the studs and clip on the headrails. Mark the stud locations on the floor and ceiling so you can avoid them.

Seal cracks at the corners where walls meet other walls or the ceiling, but scrape away the excess sealant with a putty knife so you can finish these corners with joint compound as you normally would. You’ll also need “jamb extensions,” strips of wood that make the door jamb flush with the drywall. A wood transition strip covers the joint where two types of flooring meet and provides a ridge for the sweep to seal against. If there are metal ducts connected to the room you want quieted, listen to the sounds entering the room. And unfortunately, there’s not much you can do about metal ducts, short of lining them with fiberglass or replacing them with fiberglass ducts (large, often impractical projects). Ripping drywall off a ceiling in a room where you’re stripping the walls anyway isn’t such a big deal. The good thing about stripping a ceiling is that you can block off spaces between joists.

Keep this in mind when you decide whether or not to add insulation and sound channel to a wall with a door.

If you have old plaster-and-lath walls, don’t remove them to add insulation and resilient channel. You must remove existing drywall before installing resilient channel. If you go to the trouble of tearing off drywall, don’t cheat yourself by using resilient channel or insulation alone. Steel studs absorb vibration by themselves, so there’s no need to use sound channel.

But when it comes to stopping sound, the modern wall is a flop. The sound proofing walls process involves ripping the existing drywall off the walls (and perhaps the ceiling), filling the walls with fiberglass insulation, attaching metal strips called “resilient channel” to the studs, and fastening new drywall to the channel. Anyone who has experience hanging and taping drywall, along with a little carpentry and electrical know-how, can do this job to sound proof a room. To minimize household havoc, it’s best to focus on one room, or at least one room at a time. Or it may be a room you want to keep sound in—like a home theater. And any improvement you make to them will be of marginal benefit unless you also upgrade your windows.

When sound waves strike a wall built with resilient channel, the drywall can vibrate independently without transferring the vibration to the studs. With either type, you’ll need lots of it and will probably save a few bucks by buying a big caulking gun that uses the more economical 30-oz. One way to ventilate a room and still limit sound travel is to install a short section of duct in an interior wall. The sound-stopping methods covered in this article have proved themselves over decades of laboratory testing and real-world use. If footsteps on the floor above you sound like hammer blows, consider carpet instead of notoriously noisy coverings like wood or tile.

We strongly recommend trying this approach before tearing up your walls. Boxes that don’t need to be moved can be repositioned so they protrude 1-1/8 in. Always turn off the power at the main panel before working on electrical systems. Also seal openings in the boxes, holes through studs and plates, and any openings in the drywall or framing. Cut the insulation with a utility knife so it fits squarely around electrical boxes.

Resilient channel is easy to cut with aviation snips or metal shears. You’d be able to hear, and partially understand, a loud conversation taking place on the other side of this standard wall. You’d still hear the voices on the other side, but they’d be muffled and unintelligible. We chose this last wall combination (insulation, resilient channel, 5/8-in. For example, by attaching resilient channel to one side of the insulated wall and screwing on four layers of 1/2-in. Then attach the new drywall sheets using special acoustical dampening adhesive and drywall screws. For extra soundproofing, add a second layer of drywall, staggering the seams. On ceilings, too, the sheets must run perpendicular to the channel. This will make your door harder to close, and you may have to install an adjustable strike plate to compensate for the thickness of the gasket. Metal strips don’t work with sweeps because they aren’t thick enough.

They not only punch large holes in a room but also carry sound throughout a house. If they’re primarily coming through the ducts, this insulation/resilient channel project won’t help, no matter how soundproof you make the walls.

But if you want to keep sound from traveling through the floor of a room, you have to tear out the ceiling in the room below or buy an acoustical floor covering. Caulk around electrical boxes, light fixtures, and plumbing and heating lines. Removing ceiling drywall gives you a great opportunity to add light fixtures. Other recessed fixtures must not come in contact with insulation. Don’t bother attaching resilient channel to both sides of a wall. A steel-stud wall with insulation alone performs about the same as a wood-framed wall with insulation and resilient channel.

Bar Top and Table Top Clear Epoxy Resin 1 Gallon by bestbartopepoxy.com

One flood coat is all that is neccessary to coat the bottle caps if you have a raised edge all the way around your surface.

But it’s worth all the work it’s insane how awesome it looks!

Used on an outdoor bar and had several issues with weather and insects getting into the finish. I tried a fan to keep the bugs from landing and finally had an application that was nice. We did learn early in start to keep the hardner in cool place or will set real fast but did not hurt the turn out of finished project. We have neer used epoxy before and the step by step exact instruction was great.

Bar Top and Table Top Clear Epoxy Resin 2 Gallons by bestbartopepoxy.com

Pour an equal amount of hardener and resin into a container. It is the same product that is mixed up in a small container and applied to the surface with a paint brush. Surfaces such as copper, stainless steel, laminate, or formica do not require a seal coat. Precise epoxy needs will vary according to many factors, including application type and surface material.

Additional coats are used to cover any items, such as memorabilia where you need to build up the epoxy to cover them adequately. If re-coated within this time period, no sanding is necessary between layers. This will prevent air bubbles from occurring in subsequent flood coats. The room in which you are working should be clean, dry, and free from dust and insects. We get many compliments as people just rave about how nice it looks. Make sure the glue is completely dry and then you will paint on a seal coat of epoxy. Just paint on a thicker seal coat so that it surrounds the bottle caps. One flood coat is all that is neccessary to coat the bottle caps if you have a raised edge all th e way around your surface. For thin material such as paper, maps, magazine articles, we recommend that you apply a coat of elmers glue over the items first to seal them as the epoxy can soak through and discolor them. I embedded many items into the top and prefilled all voids prior to the seal coat.

I used a heat gun to pop the bubbles which worked great, but just wave the heat over the surface.

Seal coat used as adhesive to hold the caps down takes 24 hours. Make sure to read all of the instructions a few times so you don’t miss any important info. Got a little nervous when the seal coat batch started heating up and “smoking”. End result is a nice high gloss finish that looks like glass.

If you are installing the counter on top of cabinets the ridge and drips that dry on the bottom take some time to sand off and make a ton of dust. Recommend wearing gloves to handle and work until you clean those off. Love the product, could use a little more on the technical side. The result is a crystal clear, brilliant surface that accentuates the material below it. Our epoxy is used for both the seal coat and the flood coat.

If your previous layer has fully dried, light sanding with 220 or 320 grit sandpaper is recommended to achieve good bonding surface. All porous materials should first have a seal coat of epoxy applied. It looks cool, but has many flaws because the epoxy has dimples, high and low spots that we couldn’t get out. You will use the same epoxy for the seal coat (just mix up a small batch). Wait 4-6 hours and then you can pour the flood coat of epoxy. In the video, you will see that we used the seal coat as our glue to hold down the bottle caps so they are securely fastened to the surface and do not float to the top of the flood coat. Then wait until the next day and you can pour the flood coat. Make sure to put a complete seal coat on, making sure to seal all cracks in the wood, this is where the bubbles come from. I held it too long on one spot and it created a dry skim area that marred the surface. I was able to sand down most of the drips on the underside of the tables without too much trouble.

It took almost every last bit of the 2 gallons to fill two 24″ round tables. I had bought double of everything and mixed up another batch. It might have been easier to temporarily tape the caps together or to glue them with a different adhesive to prevent the frequent adjustments. Good staff help via chat and info on instruction sheet and on web page is good.

Suitable for use in adverse weather conditions the hydrophobic formula displaces moisture ensuring a watertight bond with virtually any roofing material. Powder on hands (corn starch, baby powder) is helpful to minimize sticky epoxy contact before hardening begins. Once opened, the tape is simply wrapped a around any surface and will set as hard as steel in about 30 minutes, even under water to stop leaks permanently. Once opened, the tape is simply wrapped a around any surface and will set as hard as steel in about 30 minutes, even under water. Allow 20 seconds then remove the resin impregnated tape from the foil pouch apply to a clean surface. Extend the tape at least 2″ beyond the break in all directions.

To increase strength and bonding continue to tighten and squeeze the tape in the direction of the wrap until it is very tacky. Mix by kneading putty with fingers until a uniform colour is achieved. Fast fusing silicone, seals and repairs an almost endless list of pipes, connectors, joints and so much more. On porous surfaces, such as cinder block, coverage will be less (approximately 25 sq. Seal wood roof surfaces, and repair slate, tile, fiberglass shingles and asphalt roofs. It must be stirred back into suspension, either manually using a pool broom or mechanically with an automated pool cleaner every 4-6 hrs. Mark level of water in pool and check for 2-3 days to determine if the leak has stopped. Provides excellent adhesion to most building surfaces, even when wet or oily.

Just cut a piece of the strip in the size of your leak, peel off release liner, and simply stick the product on. Because of this feature, the product will never crack due to differing weather circumstances.

The flexible formulation contains added fibres for superior tensile strength and crack bridging qualities ensuring a tough repair to leaking and damaged roofs. Suitable for use on flashings, gutters, roof lights and valleys. Spray this protective coating wherever small leaks occur, and they’ll stop in an instant!

It is suitable for bonding heavy building materials without the use of clamps and/or fixing tape. A specially formulated sprayable mastic that immediately seals and repairs water leaks on a variety of roofing materials. The unique thickening system immediately structures on contact ensuring gaps and cracks are filled and repaired giving instant protection against water ingress.
Suitable for use on leaking roofs, guttering, pipes and drains and on caravans, garden sheds and greenhouses.

To speed curing time add enough water (fresh or salt) to cover the tape. Firmly wrap the tape over the area to be repaired pulling in the direction of the wrap. A second application may be applied, and excess resin may be removed with alcohol or acetone before it cures.

Apply a heavy coat with a 2″ to 3″ paint brush over the problem areas. If the area of leakage can be pinpointed, extend the coating at least three inches past this point. If second coat is applied after 48 hours, the surface must first be sanded and cleaned. After it has been in place for more than one week or if exposed to excessive high humidity during application, a blush may appear on the surface. Use to coat and rustproof all metal surfaces on roofs; seal and waterproof concrete, brick, block or stone surfaces on roofs. If this is not possible, the vacuum cleaner could be used alternatively, simply by placing the vacuum in deepest part of pool and connect to normal vacuum connection. After the leak has stopped and given the proper time to cure, (24-48 hrs.) you may return to normal filtration. Use on aluminium, galvanized and vinyl clad gutters, end caps, and dowspouts. The tool is supplied with reusable 10 15 & 22mm seals that have a recessed step moulded in every seal to fit copper fittings. The product has been field tested by a plumbing company over the last 2 yrs.

The hydrophobic coating cures to form a flexible, weatherproofing membrane which repels moisture to repair and seal the substrate. The breathable formulation repels moisture and ensures trapped moisture can escape from within the substrate.

Advanced Tips For Selecting Grout Color by blog.mosaicartsupply.com

If the grout color does not sufficiently contrast the tile colors, than all the tiles blend together visually, and much of the “mosaic effect” is lost. The most obvious exception is when you are using gray tile (duh), but the one that usually catches people by surprise is when tiles of lighter blue colors are used. In this situation, a warm light brown or sand colored grout might be a good choice for contrasting the blue tile, but what if there are light brown tile used elsewhere in the mosaic?

At least you won’t be covered in dirt and holding a toilet seat or something like that. Matching grout color to tile color tends to be even more disastrous. Of course, even a novice can take a few of each color tile and create an abstract experiment on a scrap piece of plywood and try a novel grout color on it. You are definitely in one of those situations where taking the tile into the building material store and looking at the color swatches in the grout aisle can really help.

As described in the end of the article, you should take your mosaic or a sample of your tiles into a building material store and compare it to the grout color swatches.

You should take a few of your tiles of each color into the building material store and see which color works best for all colors. Is shouldn’t matter what the other colors in your kitchen are. The only reason the grout color matters is that it contrasts tile colors sufficiently enough to make each individual tile stand out. I suspect it will be a terracotta color, but there are more than one. You don’t have to consider grout/concrete as a source of color unless you have broad gaps like you sometimes see in stepping stones where relatively few tiles are pressed into concrete with a lot of untiled area. It’s hard to choose a grout color based on descriptions, and so this situation is definitely one where you would want to take the mosaic (or some of the tiles) into a building material store and compare it to the swatches of grout colors. But the best way to tell what would be best is to actually compare the tile colors to grout swatches. I know this is contrary to your standard advice about selecting a contrasting grout color. If you want to minimize the contrast of the grout (which is usually not the case), then your best bet is to choose a gray in the middle like you are thinking.

I will send you a picture of my project when it is completed. We have tried brown grout and you lose sight of the glass pieces and we have tried almond grout and the stone pieces blends in with it and you cant see the stone pieces. Even fine art painters have to put the paint on the canvas to tell. You have to pre-seal stone with a stone enhancer or tile and grout sealer to prevent staining no matter what color you choose. I usually make my own colour with one or more pigment powders (don’t know the exact english name). Also we can work putting the different coloured tiles over the ipad (cover it with plastic for proctection) where the colours can be disposed. You have to be very sure of the colour of the grout, because it makes all the difference. They are metal oxides and minerals that should not be breathed. So, as much as you dislike white grout, would that not help it to play second fiddle to the paisley?

None of them are glass…they are all made of three-dimensional things like beads and jewelry.

I use matching colored grout for this part (pale pink ) or even leave this part without any?

In mosaic artwork, the grout also has a visual function, and that is to contrast (not match) the tile colors. The trick or tip is to not to try to do this from memory without the benefit of having your tile with you.

The people who work there are accustomed to seeing professionals at work, and you will be quite unobtrusive compared to the building contractors dealing with emergencies. If you already have your figures rendered in tile using a relatively small grout gap, and you like how those figures look, then your main objective while grouting should be to not mess up the visual art that was already working, especially if you are a novice at mosaic. The monochromatic nature of medium gray grout makes it contrast colors intrinsically, in the same way that back and white contrast colors intrinsically. Most people use blinding white grout for ordinary tiling, particularly in bathrooms because and tint of color might look less than clean. Black grout tends to make colors more vibrant, so that might be a good choice. A light to medium gray might work, but you can look at different hues two: terracotta, light brown, etc.< /p> I have a river scene with light grey and dark blue water, brown mountains, white lilies and a blue sky…i bought a bag of light to medium grey and a dark grey….either one will get lost in the grey and dark blue water. It might be one of those cases where an off-white grout is recommended.

My kitchen cabinets and walls will be white, my countertops are gray concrete, and appliances are stainless steel with either dark gray or black touches. Mounting paper is a temporary installation aid that peels off the tile after you press the sheet into mortar or adhesive and let it harden. I prefer more standard mosaic where the grout gap is small and serves visually only to separate the tiles. The usual medium gray grout might not be good if you have light blue tiles.

This article explains why you need to take your mosaic (or the tile) to the building material store and compare those colors to the colors of the grout swatches. I have also written an article explaining why epoxies and polyurethanes are bad choices for mosaics. I am doing a large digitized photo mosaic in a range of 8 shades of gray, from black to white. I used 8mm glass square tile with very little space between the tiles. The situation with black and white is that a grey that blends in one place will stand out in other places. We tried black grout and the black went into the pits of the light stone and also made the stones darker and it looked bad.

I suspect that what you need is a variation on the colors you have already tried but lighter or darker. Excuse me for english mistakes, for it’s not my native language. What is the best grout for the wood planks and then also for the glass?

You need to select the grout color using color swatches held against your materials as recommended in the article (even if that means carrying samples of your materials to the swatches in the building material store). I actually want my background to recede so that it is secondary to the paisley. You want to decrease visual interest in the background, but making the background lose its mosaic effect is probably not the way to go.

Lexel® By Sashco by sashco.com

Lexel® clear caulk is 19 times clearer than silicone and won’t yellow or cloud up over time. Some release agents may be present on the surface, which could prevent adhesion. Lexel outperforms everything else on the market; it’s great stuff.

It not only seals, but adheres so well, it will “fuse” two adjoining materials together forever. No cracking, tearing, or pulling away for a lasting, permanent seal. Lexel may be used where you desire the surfaces to show through. In addition, the backing materials on mirrors are not always adequate for good adhesion. In refrigerators or freezers where approval is not needed, it will perform very well and hold up to the cold temperatures and can be cleaned with abrasive cleaners. Yes – below water line at your own risk since we haven’t done the testing. Lexel is not very easy to remove (as you’ve probably discovered). It is always good practice to check for any loss of adhesion or center tearing so that you can repair it immediately, preventing any water and insect infiltration in those areas. You can clean your chinking and caulking lines with soap and water. Where exempt solvents are required, exempt solvents smell different.

If too little material is installed, premature “cohesive failure” can occur. Remove release agents with rubbing alcohol or degreaser products. I was going to replace the window, but 5 years later it is still in, the caulk has held the window together and has stayed clear in direct sunlight. Some contractors buy cheaper brands to look a little better on their bids. This usually means you have to tent the walls and heat them. Lexel to continue to cure through it while maintaining a flexible film that won’t crack. The smell of the solvents during early cure can sometimes be bothersome, so be sure to let it cure first before using the sauna.

This is especially helpful when natural woods are sealed, such as around molding or wood floors. The backing can pull or tear away from the glass and stick to the wall, while the mirror falls to the ground.

Lexel is not a “marine” type sealant and is not recommended to be used in those areas, especially because we have not tested it with pool or hot tub chemicals, nor under water-submersion pressure.

This is okay because there is more “space” and larger volume of water into which the solvents can dissipate. Depending on the exact application, it can be used to repair cracks or leaks in all of the above. Don’t use in aquariums or enclosures with animals prone to chewing (gerbils, hamsters, rats, etc.) and only use in large aquariums (like outdoor ponds) in aquatic applications. There are no substantial differences between mobile homes and conventional housing. When installed properly according to directions, chinking and caulking don’t take much in the way of maintenance. You may also want to periodically clean the surface for appearance’s sake. Stubborn areas can be scrubbed with a nylon brush and water. Lexel can often times be used in areas where a silicone is recommended. Lexel is better characterized as an insulator or dialectric. First, use a razor knife to slit the chink or caulk line a bit further to release pressure on the bead.

Backer rod also greatly helps control the depth of the sealant as it is being installed to insure that the optimum amount of material is put into place. If too much is installed, the sealant is wasted and your costs are greatly increased.

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