The Counters Blog

I think it would be nice to be able to control the lights from the island itself and don’t want to use a regular toggle type switch due to the flat surface and the wet environment. There will be one for the disposal and one for the lighting. With a double throw switch you could have another switch on the wall somewhere that allows you to dim the lights but your air switch would only turn them on or off to the dimmed level set on the other switch. To do this with an air switch would mean the air switch isn’t turning the light itself off/on but is instead controlling an electronic device that does the dimming. We have a large island with a sink and 3 pendant lights above. Would prefer to have the ability to either dim or switch the lights to a low setting. I know there are spst, spdt, and dpdt switches compatible with these buttons but don’t know the proper switch to get or how to configure to lower the light brightness. Spst, spdt, and dpdt are all on off switches of various kinds. You need an electronic dimmer of some kind that can tell how many times the switch has been pushed and then set the dimmer accordingly. They are making it to the home with more buttons with smart home products.Sounds like you have convinced me to stick with a single light amount and not worry about the dimmer at this time.

Jones On Making A Push To Stop Switch by homepage.divms.uiowa.edu

The mechanism of the push-button switch slides in this channel, and the switch toggle is completely protected from impact, no matter how hard someone yanks on or bashes the push button. The button attaches to the operating bracket with a pivot screw. The hole that engages the bat handle is about twice the diameter of the handle. These are adjusted so that banging on the knob turns off the toggle switch but does not apply any force to the bat handle of the toggle switch once it toggles into the off position, and so that yanking on the knob similarly turns on the toggle switch without stressing the handle. This causes the button to pop out, making it easier to grab and pull when turning on the machine. You push the button to stop the system, and then you must twist it to unlatch it before you can push the start button. The slider and the track in which it slides are both made of brass, with a tungsten carbide pin (the shank of a broken micro-drill) sticking out of the left end of the slider to interfere with the forward-reverse switch. I solved this problem by putting a “porch roof” over the switches. A push button made of 3/4 inch round aluminum bar, with a groove around its front edge that you can grab to pull on the knob. You can spin the knob all you want and it will not apply enough torque to unscrew the mounting screw. The bat handle of the switch engages a round hole in the larger side of the bracket that’s parallel to the wall of the channel, while the short side bolts to the end of the knob. There are positive stops at both the on and off side of the sliding bracket, a screw in the side of the channel at the back and two screws in the front face of the bracket, one above and one below the knob. There is a moderately stiff spring on the bracket that pushes the bat handle of the toggle switch toward the off direction. The groove is just flush with the faceplate of the machine when the button is pushed in all the way to the stop. I turned a hole in the front of the knob with concentric rings to grab the pvc, then pressed a gob of red polymer clay in place. This is why many of the commercial emergency stop buttons have spinning arrows on them. Setting the forward-reverse switch to its intermediate off position locks the slider to the right, preventing the lathe from being turned on. The screws that attach the interlock to the front panel are all worked from the back of the front panel, as is the set screw that holds the pin in place. When you do this, the pin blocks any change to the forward-reverse switch, and the on-off button pops out, locking the slider to the left.

How To Replace A Push Button Light Switch by hunker.com

Do not touch the sides of the switch until you test for voltage. Use the hole on the wire stripper to make a hook-shaped bend in the exposed sections of wire so they can fit under the switch’s screw terminals. Then, connect the top wire to the top terminal on the side of the switch and the bottom wire to the bottom terminal. Replacing a push-button switch is equally identical to replacing a toggle switch. Keep them separated and keep the top wire pointing upward and the bottom wire downward, so that you can identify them easier when installing the new switch. If they are corroded or look to be in poor shape, use the wire strippers to cut off the bad section and strip 3/4 inch of new insulation from the end of the wires.