Understanding Gfrc For Concrete Countertops | Duration 1 Hour 9 Minutes 22 Seconds The newly remodeled kitchen has cortz countertops and never used new appliances. Waterman is a master at restoration and is excited about the opportunity to restore and help the owners to sell their historic home for what it’s truly worth. Solar system is owned and hidden grove, making electrical costs a breeze! From the floor to the ceiling this home feels special, featuring hand-laid tile and custom fixtures is only the beginning. The perks of this home are similar to those that you’d find at a luxury resort. Come home through your own private gates and into a magical space landscaped in lush gardens and scenic views. Johnson and her two sons, easterners would come for the peace and quiet and winter sunshine. Two big balconies on both ends of the house give you breathtaking views of the mountains. Spacious living room, separate family room, large kitchen with separate dining area. The home also offers a back yard you will have plenty of room to garden and have family events.
Dempsey Woodworking by van-vliet.org
Various sizes are directly derived from the bottle jack; details are shown in the references section below. Aigars wrote me that he actually got that idea from a fable! Ok, this is not made 100% of oak, the trough and press board is made of plywood as it was easier and cheaper to make. The oil made oak a bit soft therefore some screws went deeper then they should. The rest of the red oak comes from a pile of trim and cut offs. I recommend to cut, shape and sand all pieces and dry-fit them together with clamps. The goal is to eventually glue three boards together and then mill it to 4″ square. Then run the board through the planer to get the other face flat and parallel to the first one. Give the planed surface one pass over the jointer to get rid of the snipe of the planer. For each post and beam arrange the three boards such that the best long edge and short edge are lined up on one side. Select a flat face on a post and mark that as the reference surface. On the table saw rip the other two surfaces at 4-1/16″ width, and finish those with two passes (1/32″ each) over the jointer. Again my mitre saw does not have the capacity for a 4″ cut, so mark where to cut all the way around the posts and beams.
To do this properly it is essential that the blade is square to mitre surface and fence. Again, my drill press has a useable capacity of about 2-1/4″, so also here we have to drill one hole from both sides. With a 3/16″ radius round over bit on the router ease over all edges of the posts and beams, except where a beam and post meet. The countertop has typically a 3″ to 4″ back splash and an often nicely rounded over front. The remaining back splash we use for lining the the back of the trough. Calculate the inside dimension of the trough and add 1/4″ spare. What is left over of the countertop is a strip at the front and that strip we use to line the two side edges. Now measure the height of the back splash and the “height” of that front strip put on its edge. Glue the side pieces to the bottom, front and back, and keep in place with some brats. Ideally we like the lining (countertop) to slent to the front a bit. Fit the countertop inside the trough with the back splash at the front.
All About Marble Countertops | Duration 8 Minutes 26 Seconds Use scrap pieces of wood and clamps to ensure that countertop lining stay in place while the glue is drying. Glue the back lining against the back making sure to apply a generous beat of clear caulking between the back lining and the bottom lining and between the lip of the back lining and the top of the back. Place the trough on the trough beams such that the backside of the trough sticks out 2″, and mark the front and back edges of the trough beams on the trough. Make sure that the trough fits easily over the trough beams with a free play of about 3/16″ to 1/8″. The bottom on the back side will be rounded while the bottom on front side will be cut of at an angle to allow for easy flow of juice. There will be holes at 2-1/2″ and 7-1/2″ from the centre to the left and to the right on the bottom of each drain slat. Put the fence of the jointer at 85 degrees and set the cutting depth at 1/32″. Line up the drain slats, bottoms up, and put the drain slat supports ontop of those, also bottoms up.
1.An Introduction To Kitchen Cabinets, Terminology & Structure | Duration 2 Minutes 55 Seconds Predrill the basket slats at 1-3/4″ from each end to receive the screws from the two hoops. The inside top and bottom edge should be rounded over a bit more to make putting in the press board assembly easier. The 38 holes should be 1-1/4″ apart starting at 5/8″ from the ends. Place the basket slats on a flat surface with the predrilled holes up and place the aluminum strips ontop. Take out the 4 screws to the left and the right of the joint of one hoop. At first glance the 8 holes in the hoop joint should also be 1-1/4″ apart starting again at 5/8″ from the ends. The four centre holes can be 1-1/4″ apart, but the four outside holes have to be slightly further apart like about 1-9/32″. You can squeeze the basket until you have an almost perfect round shape. Determine the centre on the top beam, find the corresponding centre on the drain and mark it. That is where the four basket cleats will come after we have made the press board assembly. The round press board and the filler top requires 1-1/4″ finished thickness.However, biscuit joints work too, but make sure that the biscuits are well within the finished boards. Trim the finger joints from the test pieces and cut the test joint again until perfectly flush. Clean the finger joints, glue the boards together and clamp them. Next cut a 1″ wide and 1/2″ deep rabbet at one end of each filler piece. Make the 1-1/4″ glued up boards flat with a scrapper and sand them. Cut out the press board with the bandsaw staying shy of the line.
Coverlamtop Countertop Installation (Eng) | Duration 4 Minutes 24 Seconds With a box corner towards you mark the location of the screw 2″ from the front corner into the right side and predrill and countersink. In my opinion a very well done project with very pleasing result, especially the elegant arch on the top beam. The whole cider press was treated with linseed oil – 4 times on trough, basket and press board, 2 times on frame. Ranging in width from 8-1/2″ to 10-3/4″, and ranging in length from 97″ to 99″. I bought on sale, and cut up to form the inside lining of the trough. Cut three boards in half lengths, and three boards in three equal lengths. Be careful not to waste any material as you don’t have much excess material. As soon as a board’s second face is flat stop planing that board. For the first post take the thickest board, the thinnest board and a middle board. On the jointer mill one edge perpendicular to the reference face. Cut from one side about 3″ deep, rotate 180°, line up the blade with the mark, and cut the remaining inch or so. Next mark the other end and trim off that end in the same way. Work accurately when marking the location, and make sure that the 1/2″ auger bit is perpendicular to the drill surface. We aim for an outside trough dimension of 22″ square. The lining for the bottom and front we cut in one piece from the counter top (countertop plus back splash); that is one joint we don’t have to worry about. The front part of the countertop we use for lining the two sides of the trough. That is how much we need from the countertop measuring from the back of the back splash. From that you have to calculate the best height of the front (where the back splash comes) and the three side for the outside box. Glue the front and back pieces to the bottom and keep in place with some brats. So glue a strip of wood or plywood on the bottom at the back. Once it fit easily you can glue it in place in the trough making sure to apply a generous beat of clear caulking between the lip of the back splash and the top of the front. Next cut off a piece from the remaining countertop backsplash and fit it at the back of the trough. Finally, apply clear caulking to each edge of the trough lining. Glue the trough cleats on the underside of the trough about 1″ in from the side and secure each with two 1-1/2″ #8 stainless steel flathead screws. Machine those and then trim to required lengths as per the material list. Now countersink the holes on the bottom to receive the 1-1/2″ #8 stainless steel flathead screws. Now screw the drain slat supports to the drain slats while making sure that the whole drain is square. Cut the two aluminum strips for the hoops at exactly 47-1/2″ and remove any burrs. Mark those, predrill with a small diameter bit using cutting fluid! Screw the aluminum strips to the basket slats with 3/4″ #8 zinc plated round head screws. Place the trough with drain on the trough beams in the frame. Make two marks at 7-1/2″ from the centre on the two diagonal lines that connects the corners of the drain.
Granite Countertops Dallas | Duration 2 Minutes 2 Seconds For that we mill the two faces of some board on the jointer and planer to a finished thickness of 1-1/4″. I used finger joints for that as those are very strong because of the large glue surface. To make finger joints it is absolutely essential to use a router table and a fence! While the glue of those boards dry we mill the four filler pieces to the proper size. Then glue the four filler pieces into a square (see pictures above) and clamp. Use a compass to mark a 13″ diameter circle for the round press board. I then use a disc sander to clean up the edge while each time checking the fit inside the basket. We need four 2″ long #8 flathead screws to secure the filler top to the filler square.
GLOSSARY OF DECORATIVE CONCRETE TERMS by concretenetwork.com
Provided is a glossary of most commonly used decorative concrete terms and definitions. An admixture used to shorten the set time of concrete and/or speed strength development. Used as an alternative to abrasive blasting for surface preparation . Gives concrete an attractive variegated or marbleized appearance. Adhesive-backed masking patterns made of vinyl or plastic used for creating stenciled concrete effects. The amount of entrained or entrapped air in concrete, usually expressed as a percentage of total volume. Helps to improve the freeze-thaw resistance and durability of hardened concrete. Usually caused by incompatibility of a newly applied coating with an existing surface coating or sealer . Water that rises to the surface of freshly placed concrete due to segregation . The formation of blisters in toppings or coatings and the loss of adhesion with the underlying substrate. The degree of adhesion or grip of a material (such as coatings, toppings, repair mortars, or sealers ) to an existing surface. A material that prevents adhesion of materials to a concrete substrate. Surface texture obtained by pushing a broom over freshly placed concrete. A tool with a 3- to 4-foot rectangular blade made of wood, resin, aluminum, or magnesium. A material used in concrete as a partial replacement for portland cement . A material containing portland cement as one of its components or having cement-like properties. The maximum compressive stress concrete or cementitious overlay materials are capable of sustaining, expressed as pounds per square inch (psi).Applying layers of color to achieve variegated or faux finish effects, such as antiquing or marbleizing . Can be precast in a shop in molds built to the customers specifications or cast onsite, by setting a mold on top of the base kitchen cabinets and then filling with concrete. The degree of roughness of a concrete surface achievable with various surface preparation methods. Routing out cracks in concrete with a saw or angle grinder before filling with a repair material. Random, non-moving hairline cracks that only affect the concrete surface (also see craze cracks and plastic shrinkage cracks ). A condition that occurs when the surface of freshly placed concrete dries too quickly, often due to exposure to direct sun, wind, or high temperatures. Helps to ensure adequate hydration and proper hardening. A longer version of a hand float , ranging in length from 2 to 4 feet. A chemical solution for removing grease, oils, and other contaminants from concrete surfaces. Or in the case of a concrete slab, a horizontal splitting or separation of the upper surface. Often recommended for polished concrete , because hard concrete produces a better polish. Contractors use a floor polisher equipped with diamond-segmented abrasives, progressing from coarser to finer grits until the desired level of sheen is achieved.Quartzite Vs Glass | Countertop Comparison | Duration 2 Minutes 22 Seconds A mixture of coloring pigments, cement, aggregates, and surface conditioning agents. A decrease in the volume of concrete as it dries, due to loss of moisture. Will not chemically react with concrete (like acid stains will). A crystalline deposit of salts (usually white in color) that forms on the concrete surface when soluble calcium hydroxides leach from the concrete and combine with carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. A method for sealing or repairing cracks in concrete by low-pressure injection of an epoxy adhesive. A poured-in-place topping for concrete substrates that goes on at a thickness of 1/4 to 3/8 inch. A waterborne, spray-applied film that temporarily reduces moisture loss when applied to the surface of freshly placed concrete. A decorative surface formed by removing the surface mortar from a concrete slab (either by scrubbing, pressure washing, or abrasive blasting ) to expose the underlying aggregates. Popular applications include waterscapes, zoo exhibits, landscaping, and theme parks. A type of sealer that blocks the penetration of water and contaminants by forming a barrier on the concrete surface. A technique for applying accent colors of dry-shake hardener to concrete surfaces before stamping. The ability of hardened concrete or an overlay to resist failure in bending. A walk-behind machine used in the production of polished concrete . A byproduct resulting from the combustion of ground or powdered coal; sometimes used as a cement replacement in concrete. A large trowel (about 2 to 4 feet in length) used for final finishing after bull floating. A glassy, granular material formed when molten blast furnace slag is rapidly chilled. May also slow setting and extend the working time of the concrete. Can be purchased preblended in a multitude of colors to define joints and sawcuts in decorative concrete slabs or walls, especially those with stone, brick, or tile patterns. Especially useful for floating along the perimeter of forms or to work in tight spots. A process for cleaning or roughening concrete surfaces using a stream of water delivered at high pressure.A gravity-fed system for spray application of coatings or toppings . A coloring agent premixed into fresh concrete or cementitious toppings before placement. Formed, sawed, or tooled groove in a concrete slab used to regulate the location of cracking ( control joint ) or to allow expansion or movement of adjoining structures. A compressible material used to fill a joint to prevent the infiltration of debris. Boards used by concrete finishers to kneel on when hand floating or troweling concrete flatwork. A thin layer of fine, loosely bonded particles on the surface of fresh concrete, caused by the upward movement of water. To give concrete surfaces the look and gloss of marble, through a combination of color layering and finishing techniques.It has multiple uses, including scraping off concrete from finishing tools and applying patching materials. Typically clear plastic like acrylic, polyurethane or epoxy. Typically applied by trowel or squeegee, and given a texture or smooth finish. Specific proportions of ingredients (cement, aggregates, water, and admixtures) used to produce concrete suited for a particular set of job conditions. An architectural concrete sample made using the same materials and methods proposed for an actual project. The size should be sufficient to adequately demonstrate all decorative treatments.
Can contribute to the failure of impermeable coatings or other floor toppings that do not permit moisture to escape. Used for smooth and consistent spreading of epoxy resin products or other low- viscosity coatings. The degree to which a membrane or coating will allow the passage or penetration of a liquid or gas. A defect in a coating characterized by pinhead-sized holes that expose the underlying substrate. Irregular cracks that occur in the surface of fresh concrete soon after it is placed and while it is still plastic . Rigid stamps made of plastic or metal that leave deep grooves in freshly stamped concrete , which can later be grouted or left open . The resulting surface is very low-maintenance and can be stained to replicate the look of polished stone. Seamless polyaspartic floors are typically applied in two or three coats with embedded vinyl or quartz chips to form a highly stain- and abrasion-resistant coating. Overlay manufacturers use different types of polymer resins, often blending them to produce proprietary products with unique characteristics. How well a concrete surface or decorative coating resists being worn away by friction or rubbing. Methods include sandblasting, shotblasting, bead blasting, and sand brushing. Accelerators are also used to the speed the chemical reaction and shorten the curing time of resin-based coatings. A stain containing inorganic salts dissolved in an acidic, water-based solution that reacts chemically with the minerals in hardened concrete to produce permanent, transparent color that will not peel or flake. May be added to concrete at the batch plant or on the job site.
Adding an air-entraining admixture to fresh concrete to cause the development of microscopic air bubbles. Surface imperfections in a coating resulting in a wrinkled appearance. Color change caused by the diffusion of color from an underlying surface. If a dry-shake color hardener is being applied to the concrete surface, some bleed water is needed to wet out the hardener sufficiently so it can be floated into the surface. On concrete surfaces, this is often caused by moisture or moisture vapor transmission problems. An adhesive agent used to increase the adherence of coatings or toppings to the existing surface. Loose, powdery substance caused by deterioration of a concrete surface or degradation of a coating or overlay. A handcrafted alternative to manufactured countertop surfaces. The area that a specified volume of coating will cover to a specified thickness upon drying. Often they are structural in nature and continue through the entire depth of the concrete. A series of fine, random cracks caused by shrinkage of the surface mortar. A liquid that, when applied to the surface of newly placed concrete, forms a membrane on the concrete or penetrates the concrete to retard the evaporation of water.
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