The Counters Blog

Portland House Sale Announcement And Event!

If you are local and have a shop that we could come and look at to pull from we would love to showcase your items. Plus there’s always the adage that not every post is going to be for every reader. For me, the project conflicts with the decidedly left-leaning ethos of this blog. There are always lower cost alternatives that offer similar style.
How To Refinish Wood Hand Railing. Hacks Staining Stair Spindles. | Duration 6 Minutes 2 Seconds I can’t wait to see the finished pics of this house! Yes, this is a high-end house with amazing finishes but it’s great to see done well. I have a friend who was looking for a house pretty much exactly like this last summer, specifically to get into the school district. I suspect you want something a little more high-brow! Hopefully, there are a few buyers interested in this 5, 000-square-foot custom home (that can be sold fully furnished) in the best school district, with almost an acre of land. Let’s get to some sneak peeks (pardon the tape, dust and tools throughout…it’s still a work in progress), shall we? We could also use some smalls, pillows, textiles and accessories. Seems a little too disorienting for a place where you’re eating. But maybe you’ll see something in this reno that sings to you, and in some way you will emulate it. Of course, she is not obligated to share every thought, this is just something that has stood out to me. Most likely, if that had happened those houses would just be sold or resold for way more money. They could have bought in another area altogether, but it sounds like in the area they chose, this is the type of house that needed to go up. Despite the fact that my whole house could probably fit in this one’s kitchen, these posts are still useful to me! You can get inspired and do something similar on your own budget. You can paint your kitchen cabinets green without breaking your budget, you can get cheaper tiles that look like those in the master bath, you can get an idea for a similar bar backsplash. There is always that option rather than criticising what is an amazing work full of inspiration.

How To Replace A Stair Railing This Old House | Duration 6 Minutes 11 Seconds The outdoor tile, the cabinet color, the black windows, oh wow. The general impression of high style with plenty of family livability. Thank you and the team that works so hard to bring these projects and posts to life!

New House Progress Update by jillianharris.com

It certainly hasn’t been rainbows and sunshine the whole way, we’ve faced lots of ups and downs throughout this reno! I wanted every drawer, cabinet, and shelf to have a purpose. The arch entry is going to be stunning so this is a perfect example of form and function! I would love to know all the ways a project like this can be funded. I am in the process of a master bath remodel myself and overwhelmed with all of the tile choices. I hear you can buy them already cut up and ready to put on the wall. Could you offer any tips or do a blog post on recommemdations and tips on keeping the interior looking clean and fresh with so much white? If it’s not what you imagined, isn’t that the easiest to fix? I would hit enter it replied on someone else’s comment, so finally figured it out. I can’t believe my eyes, not to mention, we are moving out of our current home at the end of this month! I shifted away from all white in the interior with light grey and different shades of blue cabinetry. I wanted the millwork in this house to be beautiful but also make my life easier and more organized. I can’t begin to express my excitement for our new foyer, it’s going to be so functional with dedicated space to store shoes and jackets bags and purses for visitors. Leo as our current home doesn’t really have this, at the moment we have an ensuite bathroom plus two powder rooms. I always envisioned the wall in my bathroom to be tiled but you can’t do that when there is a pocket door because when the door goes back and forth it’ll make the tiles loose! Can you tell me about the marble subway tike you have pictured. We honestly tried 9 shades of grey that really looked grey on the colour wheel….we bought the tester cans for every one of them and threw them on the walls to be sure sure! The other 8 all looked of some other colour too, at some point in the day. We just did our house using this colour and it turned out beautiful. I am getting ready to build a new house myself and am starting to have an obsession with white. Not sure why you can’t do that but your idea sounds way nicer.

How To Install A Stair Handrail On Stairs This Old House | Duration 3 Minutes 55 Seconds We have 3 bathrooms with warm floors – one being in the basement. Your attitude about taking a deep breath and moving forward is spot on!

Stairway Tread Width and Tread Nose Details For Stair Construction and Inspection by inspectapedia.com

We also include references to key documents on building codes and stair and railing safety. Define tread depth : the stair tread depth (red arrow) is measured from the forward edge of the step nose or edge of the step above out to the leading edge of the step being measured. Closed riser stairs include a vertical riser board that adds support below the stair tread. Don’t confuse step riser height (defined above) with stairway headroom – the vertical space between the walking surface of a stair tread and the ceiling or other obstruction overhead. Stair tread nose (yellow arrow in the photo of stone steps above) is the projection of the stair tread out over the stair riser. The stone steps up the pyramid shown above don’t have a tread nose, and worse, the stones are irregular and worn, making falls more-likely. For stairs enclosed by a wall on both sides, usually the total stairway width is the distance between those walls. The usable walking surface along the width of stair treads will normally be less than the total stairway width, and less than the stair tread width. Oops, that is, unless you start confusing tread depth with stair tread riser height. The stair tread depth shall be measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads and at right angle to the tread’s leading edge. Any broken away or uneven tread nose is a trip and fall hazard. Does the lumber type of species make much difference in this risk? The wood is often quite wet with preservative when purchased, it will even squirt when nailed. So depending on what alternative and more costly wood that might be use for decking, say cedar, there is a non-quantifiable greater chance that a knot appears at5 or close to the edge of a board and thus could end up on a stair tread nose. Openings around knots can also hold water and in a freezing climate an thus contribute to ice or frost cracking and damage to the wood in that area. What about slipperiness of treated wood decks or stairs when wet? The hardness of lumber species varies as does surface texture; cedar (used on more expensive decks, steps, rails) for example has a somewhat more grainy surface and may be less slippery than treated wood when dry. And the faux hand railing made of pipe extends just about 20 inches above the stair treads – not a usable rail height. But we find algal growth can occur on all species of wood used for exterior stairs as well as on some other surfaces, even concrete.

Stair Rail Connector By Deckorators | Duration 59 Seconds Below: where the walking surface and stair tread surfaces are the same color and appearance, falls are more likely. We placed a water bottle on the floor to provide a visual clue of the presence of the step riser for our photograph. This is not a safe way to give a visual clue about the presence of a step. As you may have noted from the sketches and text above, typically building codes for stairs specify minimum stair tread thickness (1″ if supported by a riser at front, or 1 1/2″ thick treads if the stairs are open-construction without risers), but they do not specify a maximum allowable tread thickness. Watch out that your new stair skin doesn’t create uneven step rise heights at the top or bottom of the stairs, nor a trip hazard at the top landing platform. So if we want we can make a large 3″ tall platform at the stair bottom to serve as a final landing – which may be a good idea anyhow if the landing ground is not level. So the total rise of 66″ will be made up of the 3″ platform plus 9 steps each of whose rise is 7″. If the ground is not level you need to project a horizontal line out from the deck surface for the distance of the stairway run (horizontal distance of travel) and measure height or total height gain needed at that point. Is there a maximum depth that a step should have to be deemed safe? Galow specializes in residential construction including both new homes and repairs, renovations, and additions. This book is unique in that it is entirely devoted to falls. We discuss the use of color or other visual clues to reduce trip & fall hazards. The tread nose defines the outer edge of each tread walking surface. The edge of the stone step below the stasir user’s feet is worn and sloped. That’s because the total stairway width is further reduced by wood trim along the sides of a stair built between walls in the photo, because the wood trim along the sides of the stairway intrudes into the space between the stairway walls, the stair trad width is made less than the stairway width by the thickness of the trim boards. If you stick to using the word stair tread depth you can avoid this confusion. You might want to double-check the definitions of stair tread depth, tread width, and riser height given above on this page.

Diy Transforming Your Staircase In 3 Easy Steps! | Duration 4 Minutes 14 Seconds Notice that the minimum stair tread thickness is increased when the stair tread is not supported by a solid riser. Stair tread depths shall be 11 inches (279 mm) minimum. Where stair tread depth is very small, such as the stone pyramid steps shown below, smart users will step sideways to ascend or descend the stairs. Stair riser heights shall be 7 inches (178 mm) maximum and 4 inches (102 mm) minimum. That’s because a variety of materials might be used, ranging from thin steel to strong oak to soft pine. A question sometimes arises about the role of choice of materials in the chances of a stair fall due to tread or tread nose breakage. The presence of a knot at the edge of wood used to build a stair tread produces a form of weakness of the wood in that area in that the weight of someone stepping on the edge of the tread nose might break the nosing away on either side of the knot. Breakaway on either side of a knot in the wood near the edge of the walking surface is what we observe in your video of the area of damaged tread nosing in your video. The 2×6 treads (actually 5 1/2″ in depth) are exactly 1/2 of the recommended tread depth and are covered with algae that will be hysterically slippery when wet. For wood surfaces these add-on products extend the life of the structure, improve its appearance, and many provide some water repellence to the surface – factors that further reduce the chances of formation of slippery algae on the walking surface. The use of color to provide a noticeable contrast between the walking surface of a passageway or floor and its steps or stairs can reduce trips and falls for walkers in either direction. A step like this also invites a trip and fall – in this case head-long into the toilet in the bathroom. The tile floor shown at below left includes a 4-inch step up into a bathroom. Do not place slippery items such as a rug or towel on a smooth floor at the top of steps or stairways such as the steps shown in our photo above. I haven’t been abl e to find a code citation on your question but am still looking and will report here. When calculating the exact riser height from stair tread surface to stair tread surface we divide the total rise height (you say 5’6″) in inches (yours would be 66″) by a good riser height (say 7″) to get the number of steps we need, and then decide how to spread the fraction uniformly over all of the steps. Since we can’t build a fractional step, we round up (which gives a lower rise) or down (which gives a greater rise or step height). Or we can play tricks to make the job easier by constructing a landing at the first step that brings us up off the ground height by an amount to make all of the steps some other height that we want by changing the effective total rise. The platform must be at least 36″ long in the direction of travel and at least as wide as the stairway. Watch out : when measuring the total height gain needed to your deck.

Stone Cottage Railings And Newel Posts | Duration 1 Minutes 58 Seconds You may need to install anti-slip tapes or strips on the treads. Stair noses are indeed an interesting question since in some countries and jurisdictions experts do not agree that a stair nose reduces trips and falls. The adhesion and friction forces of the confined biopolymer were monitored as a function of time, shearing distance, and driving velocity under a large range of compressive loads (pressures). The adhesion (adsorption) of this polysaccharide even to negatively charged surfaces, its stable low friction, its robustness (high-load carrying capacity and good wear protection), and the weak (logarithmic) dependence of the friction force on the sliding velocity make this class of polyelectrolytes excellent candidates for use in water-based lubricant fluids and as potential additives to synovial fluid in joints and other biolubricating fluids.

My Collection by tynietoy.org

My primary focus is now restricted to artisan dollhouse miniatures with a few exceptions here and there. The ground floor masonry was molded from plaster and then painted while the upper floors feature applied half-timbering and textured paint that started out as white and had turned yellow over time. The interior is as interesting and richly detailed as the exterior. It took me the better part of a week to clean the interior and the furnishings that could be saved. Back in the late 1960’s and early ’70’s, a lot of nice houses were lighted this way. Removing the valances visually opened up the rooms in a dramatic fashion. I feel it really allows the windows and other trim to really stand out so people can appreciate all that detail. I wanted to decorate this area in a more formal and less cluttered traditional style with a prominent fireplace. I think it might have been papered before and perhaps some glue residue had been left there. The renovations in this space allowed me to create a more defined area for the traditional dining room. This time, it was an easy decision to go back to the plywood walls and brighten the space with paint. This was the room that had been papered with matching fabric window valances. I installed one wall sconce towards the back of the room and a table lamp near the door. The overstuffed sewing box covered with blue toile paper just had to go in this room. The upstairs hall had a plywood staircase with a plain square newel post and no balusters. It was an easy task to remove the wallpaper, paint and redecorate this room. That’s how the chest of drawers ended up in front of a window. Gretchen’s original bathroom featured real mosaic tiles glued down and grouted with mastic. You can see the old wiring tucked along the side of the wall. I left the wall of this and all the other rooms plain and un-papered so they blend together better. I was happy to see the removal of the gingham checked wallpapers in this room. Five years later, he thought he was ready to part with it and he wanted it to go to someone who had known and liked her, rather than offer it for sale to strangers. She often added her own embellishments to the commercial items. The missing shutter shows how much the walls became discolored over time. With time, some pieces had split and lifted a little on the edges but that just made them look more realistically old and gave the house even more character. They were nicely scaled and evoked a lot of nostalgic charm, but they had been ruined by the liberal use of blu-tac and sticky wax on every surface. I just painted over it to leave it a little rough and patchy-looking like ceilings sometimes are in very old houses. They are made of walnut and featured simple lines and nicely scaled upholstered seats. I kept the vinyl tile floor after removing a lot of wax and blu-tac. It tickles me that the same tiles on the sink’s backsplash are used in the sitting room’s fireplace insert. I imagine this peaceful setting as a guest room where the mistress of the manor sometimes slips away to work on her needlepoint. But like most of the rooms in the house, the generous number and size of the windows provided some challenges when it came to placing furniture. They were over-scaled with deep crevices where the grout had been applied, and the grout was stained and quite grubby. I chiseled out the tiles before stripping the paper and adding the new knee walls. The stained glass panel in the window came with the house and had been waxed in place over one of the bedroom windows a floor below. As you can see, the new walls allowed me just enough space for the sink. This was one of the rooms encumbered with a surplus of blue adhesive on the floors, walls and within the window seat. Once the room was painted, it appeared much more bright and appealing. I gave the bed a lightly distressed painted finish and made the coverlet with matching curtains and window seat cushion. I often feel that too many wallpapered rooms make a house look somewhat chaotic when viewed as a whole and painted walls make the space look more peaceful and serene. Due to the placement of the staircase, this room has the least realistic layout of the whole house – one would have to bend at the waist to exit the stairs and move towards the bath or the little bedroom. How much brighter and spacious the room appears after removing the valance and painting the walls white.

Which Way Should Hardwood Floors Run by blog.about-home-design.com

Rule number one in laying hardwood flooring is the wood boards should run perpendicular to the floor joists below. If the boards were run parallel to the floor joists, most of the boards would sit only upon the plywood subflooring and not on any of the joists. As a general rule, wood flooring looks best when running in the same direction as the longest dimension of the room. In rooms that are more square in shape, the direction of the wood flooring is not as critical. The wood flooring looks best if laid perpendicular to your view direction. If you are looking straight down the planks, the seams between the boards will be more obvious. It’s not always practical to run the flooring in these optimal directions. If the floor joists below the wood flooring are running the wrong direction for the way you want the flooring to look in the room, ask your builder to install wood blocking beneath the floor from joist to joist to support a floor running parallel to the joists. Of course, selecting the right wood for your floor is very important. One other neat feature is to install flush thresholds between rooms. The flooring must run perpendicular to the floor framing so it is properly supported. However, you could install blocking between the floor joists, if they are accessible, and then run the flooring parallel to the joists. By running it the long way, he saved himself a lot of cutting and gave you an improper installation. He should be responsible for the repair, unless he can prove the joists run perpendicular to the flooring. But it sounds like your nail pops and seams that show in the ceiling below are plenty of evidence that your flooring is improperly supported. But the visual aspect is less of an issue than the structural issue. So first and foremost, the wood flooring should run perpendicular to the floor framing. Hopefully your floor joists already run perpendicular to the direction you would like the floor to run. Also, unfortunately nothing is level (it’s a cabin after all) and the floor slopes slightly toward one end of the house…possibly off as much as 1/2″ from the other end of the room (16 feet away). Any boards that run parallel to the joists, but are located above the spaces between the joists, will move fractionally when stepped upon. Regarding your non-level floor, you can lay the wood floor on top of the joists and simply let it slope. If it can support a carpeted floor, why would it needs the floor joists to help with planks? With the floor boards running parallel to the joists, you will have lots of floor boards only supported by the plywood and not the joists. First, will it look best if direction of lay be consistent in all rooms? What is your advice concerning multiple rooms and how critical is it that planks be laid parallel to the direction of the hallway? But you can lay wood flooring in different directions in different rooms if circumstances demand it. In other words, make sure the planks run the long direction within the doorway opening. My floor joists run in the long direction in my fairly long and narrow kitchen. If the room below the kitchen is unfinished and ductwork, pipes, etc. But if you cannot get to the underside of the subfloor, another possible fix would be to install a second layer of subflooring over the one you already have. Of course this option will thicken your floor and it may require some sort of transition threshold where the new floor ends and adjoins another flooring material. This, however, is contrary to you suggestion as to how it looks best if laid perpendicular to your view direction as you enter the room. The more important question in your case would be what direction the underlying floor joists run. That will also let the flooring run parallel to the sliding doors. Your one inch material is almost like having a double subfloor. If nails begin to pull out later, you’ll be overrun by floor squeaks. Just install a flush transition board to make a logical change in direction. Should we run them long ways as you walk into the house so it flows all way back to the family room? But you should first determine which direction the floor joists are running. If you don’t do this, you will increase the flex in the floor and you’ll get more squeaks and possibly humps in the flooring. Do you notice the direction hardwood flooring runs when you walk into a house? This allows the boards to “span” from one joist to the next and be much more solid. The plywood is flexible and will “give” fractionally when walked upon. But another rule in laying wood flooring has to do with the aesthetics or look of the flooring. For instance, if the room is ten feet by sixteen feet, the wood flooring will look best when running in the sixteen foot direction. So in a hallway that is only four feet wide, the wood flooring really needs to run the length of the hall and not crosswise, if at all possible. Also consider the view you have of the floor when you enter the room. And if the seams are not perfectly straight, you will more readily see that variation, too. This will cost a bit more, but it will be worth it in narrow spaces, like hallways. Consider the grain and color of the wood and how it will look with other wood items in the room, like kitchen cabinets and wood trim. If the existing floor joists are running the same direction as the ceiling planks, then the flooring will end up perpendicular to the ceiling. If you have original drawings (blueprints) of the house, they may show the joist direction on them. Hopefully the installer will do the right thing and correct this at no additional cost to you. This is particularly true in hallways where the length of the hall is much greater than the width. If that would make your floor look choppy because the planks would be short and numerous, the remedy is to install blocking below the subfloor to support the wood planks. You will have to weigh the benefit against the cost. I presume we can lay hardwood in any direction desired? How do we best approach this when laying hardwood and are there any width restrictions due to this different? The flooring must be laid perpendicular to the floor joists for proper support. But the subfloor itself is not strong enough to support the wood flooring properly. This will cause the floors to become uneven and the flexing will cause squeaks. Chances are the only way to remove that slope is to jack up the framing itself. Try laying a piece of 3/4″ plywood on two 2×4’s and step in the middle. In places where you step all the time, like at the bottom of the stairs or near doorways, the boards can begin to move. If yes, the direction of lay will likely be in same direction as the longest dimension in the living room, unfortunately this will require that the 8′ entrance hallway be laid contrary to your advice. Also, lay direction will terminate at the top of stairs and changed to go down stairs. It works best if there are defined openings from room to room. I would suggest making the transition in direction at the edge of the “room side” of the wall the doorway is in and not make the transition on the hallway side of the wall. I do the blocking you mention in an existing home, or does it have to go under the sub-floor, which would be impractical. All you need to do is cut pieces of 2×4 the proper length and nail them up against the subfloor and between the joists (with the long direction of the 2×4’s going perpendicular to the joists. That should make the subfloor strong enough to support the wood floor boards and keep them from moving. You’ll have to decide if that will be acceptable to you or not. If the wood is laid properly and the joints are tight and straight, viewing it lengthwise will be fine. The hardwood flooring is best laid perpendicular to the joists so the planks are properly supported on several joists. Also, test out a spot or two to make sure the subfloor will hold a nail reasonably well. Also, the hallway which is connected to the main room runs perpendicular to the long side of the front room. For aesthetics, you might be better off doing what you suggest and have the flooring run in the long direction in both the hallway and the front room. I am considering this is to get around the problem of having to have the boards running different directions in the hallway and the living room. Placing wood diagonally, even on siding, was popular in the 70’s. If you want to change the direction of the boards as you move from room to room, you can make the transition by installing a flush threshold board at the doorway. However, entering the dining room from the living room through french doors, if we continue the boards in the same direction, then the boards would run parallel to the shorter wall of the dining room which is about 11ft x 13ft. Making you walk across the planks as you walk in the front door, like a ladder? But in rooms that are not too narrow, this rule is not as important. That ladder effect you describe is what you should try to avoid. It is a darker color ( by choice) than our existing oak flooring running the length of our hallway. My wife would like all the flooring to run in the same direction. If you are doing this in an existing house, you might want to add a bead of construction adhesive to the top of the blocking before you install it so it adheres to the subfloor.

“The Haunting” Production Draft Revised By Michael Tolkin by dailyscript.com

It shifts from one side of the theater to the other, like something moving among the wall hangings. The umbrella-like clothes line on which it hangs bangs against a dirty glass door as if trying to get in. The reaction is so strong we instantly know something is very wrong. Nell, feeling the drug, finds her way to the phone and picks up. Two banks of black and white monitors give us images of men and women, different ages, different races, wired to electrodes. The subjects are working through variations on object manipulation and pattern recognition tests. The subjects on the right keep stopping, and going over what they have done. The subjects on the right, because the shocks are random, can’t anticipate, and the distraction throws them off. There are subtle differences between the two banks of monitors. The subjects on the left are better able to concentrate on their tasks. He is a man whose confidence rests uneasily on his ambition, and in the tension between the two is the power that makes him the teacher students love. This is not a court martial with judges behind a desk, it’s more free form. The subjects on the left, because they anticipate the shocks, make the adjustment, and lose nothing on their scores. Elementary school classrooms near train tracks or airports, where loud noise is random; this helps to prove the need for sound insulation if the children are ever going to learn to read.

How Do I Repair A Loose Wall Anchor Hole That Has Fallen Out Of Drywall by removeandreplace.com

Drywall anchors are fine for many uses and applications, but if people will be pulling indirectly on the object it can loosen and fall out over time. These items can be loosened from the wall as they receive indirect force on them daily. If you do install the item that you are reattaching into the wooden stud, you can use normal wood screws or drywall screws to secure it. If you cannot attach the item into wood and your only option is installing into drywall, then read on and see below. Just make sure to install them properly and use 2 or more if the picture frame or wall decor is large and heavy. Choose a drill bit that is about 1/3 the thickness of the plastic anchor so that the hole will be tight enough for the plastic anchor to not loosen and fall out. If you are using the self drilling type then just simply screw them into the wall. The hole you will need to drill in your drywall when using a toggle bolt will be larger than you think so read the package that contains your toggle bolts for the proper size drill bit to use. Carefully slide the spring loaded end of the toggle bolt into the wall far enough for the spring loaded nut to “open” and secure itself behind the drywall. If it does not pull out of the wall after you pull on it, then begin to slowly tighten the toggle bolt until it is tight, snug and secure. First of all the reason it fell out was because you installed or attached it into drywall. When we say “pulling indirectly” we mean a towel bar, curtain rod or toilet paper holder. Normally this is a 2×4 that is supporting your walls and this is what the sheet of drywall is screwed into to hold it in place. Just make sure they are long enough to go deep into the wood and support the item you are hanging. If you are installing a picture frame or wall decor, then this is your best option. Once you have your holes drilled, take a hammer and lightly tap the plastic anchors into the holes you just drilled. Once your anchor is in place, screw the metal screw into the anchor and hang your picture frame o r wall decor art. Once your hole is drilled into the drywall, slide the toggle bolt into the hole of the bracket of the item you are hanging (such as the bracket hole on a towel bar or whatever you are hanging). Lightly pull on the toggle bolt to make sure it has sprung open and is secure. Repeat this with any other items that need secured to your wall or items that have the probability to become loose over time from people pulling on them. I hesitate to say what is hanging from it – a ceramic toucan!

Flock Real Estate Group by flockrealty.com

Sun-drenched family room with stunning tile fireplace open to the dining area. Two additional nice size bedrooms and updated bathroom upstairs. Spacious family room with large picture window flows into this functional eat-in kitchen with plenty of cabinet space, tile backsplash updated floors and stainless steel appliances. Whether you want to make this your home or use this as a great investment opportunity, act now! Kitchen with copious cabinets, breakfast bar, stainless steel appliances and hard surface counter tops. Living rm, formal dining & hearth rm, frplce w/french drs opening to deck. Most appliances & furnace are newer & well maintained. No shortage of space as this property was converted from a duplex to a single family home. The master bedroom and bathroom suite conveniently located on the first floor. Four additional bedrooms located upstairs with two full bathrooms. Building is currently zoned and used as office but can be converted to residential. Space includes two private offices, and ample open shared office spaces, large conference room, kitchenette and garage space. Entire downstairs boasts laminate flooring, mostly original trim and casings, high ceilings, and so much more! Newer upgraded appliances – washer & dryer included! Taking the staircase up you enter the loft which could serve as a second living space or a home office. Agent and owners representative must be present for showings so advanced notice is required. Quartz ctrs, recessed lighting, beautifully updated kitchen & baths. Gorgeous kitchen with new white cabinets, quartz countertops, island, subway tile backsplash and new stainless steel appliances. Open floor plan perfect for everyday living and entertaining. Enjoy cooking meals in this updated kitchen with crisp white cabinets, quartz countertops, subway tile backsplash, island and stainless steel appliances! Both masters have a stunning bathroom and walk-in closets! Sun-drenched master suite with updated must see attached bath and large closet. All three bedrooms are a nice size and feature hardwood floors. We have extensive experience with new construction and have invested millions of dollars ourselves restoring historic properties. We help create the lifestyle you imagine in the home of your dreams. Full basement w/full bath & appliances for use as a play area or etc. Appliances in basement, main kitchen & apt above garage stay. Kitchen includes brand new appliances, quartz countertops, and tile backsplash. Includes unique spiral staircase to roof deck and large windows with lots of natural light. The kitchen contains custom cabinets and a massive island perfect for the whole family. The second floor offers two full suites as well as ample storage.

Amazon: The Venetian Betrayal Cotton Malone 9780345485786: Steve Berry: Books by amazon.com

Locating his final resting place–unknown to this day–remains a tantalizing goal for both archaeologists and treasure hunters. To date, nearly 2, 500 students have attended those workshops. He was a trial lawyer for 30 years and held elective office for 14 of those years. He liked the monthly meetings and this one had been no exception. Cassiopeia rarely did anything on impulse, so a little advance preparation wasn’t a bad idea. His fingertips again came away sticky and smelly, with the same nauseating odor. Fifteen steps up, more glass-and-chrome display cases dotted the hardwood floor. A nozzle extended from its top and every few seconds a burst of aerosol spewed out. He recalled the sound the igniter made with each pump of the button. The ceiling joined the conflagration, and in less than fifteen seconds the second floor was totally ablaze. He partially retreated down the staircase and waited for the fire to be doused. A fireball drifted to the ceiling and seemed to be welcomed by the spraying water. The other gizmo that had sat dormant sprang to life and started skirting the ground-floor display cases. He watched as fire eased down the staircase, consuming each riser, like the devil descending to greet him. His breaths became labored, thanks to the chemical fog and the rapidly vanishing oxygen. He lay prone on the floor, arms extended, palms to the hardwood, which he immediately noticed was sticky. Her call yesterday to arrange the meeting had surprised him. The least he could do was close the door and phone the police when he returned home. The right side of his head throbbed and he caressed a tender knot. He noticed that his shirt and trousers were damp, as was his hair, face, and arms. A wood-and-chrome staircase led up to a second floor that dissolved into more darkness, the ground floor extending out beneath. The chrome banister was damp, as were each of the laminated risers. When a display case or statue was encountered, the thing stopped, retreated, then darted in a different direction. He stared down over the railing to the ground floor and spotted another of the contraptions parked beside a display case. The unit came with a red button that, when pumped, sparked a gas flame. The temperature rose swiftly and he raised an arm to shield his face. Steam thickened the air, not with smoke but with a chemical that made his head spin. Surely someone would call the fire department, but they’d be no help to him.

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