Restoring Granite Counter Are These Holes Normal? Do I Need To Fill Them All? :



They appear at maybe 2 or 3 every square foot and vary in size, largest is probably 1/2 inch long and 1/32 deep.

Unsure how much professional repair will be but we might not get the full benefit for the outlay for the repair.

Unfortunately, stuff like this is part of owning granite countertops.

Because it’s a natural stone it’s going to be filled with small cracks and pits which is why you need to reseal granite yearly.

Each pit had a small fragment or two which wasn’t connected well to the base layer and when unsealed came detached.

It should be similar in color to the darker spots, but not darker than they are.

You’ll be able to see them after repair but due to the fact that granite has an irregular patterning your guests probably won’t unless you point it out to them.

As a curler vacancies in the running surfaces are common, and annoying.

It’s an engineered stone so it’s not going to have the drawbacks, and it’s much more heat and stain resistant to boot.

I thought you were implying that you were a hair stylist and your station was made with granite countertops to put your curling irons on.

You can reseal the hole, but then you’re still going to have a big, sealed crater in your countertop.

Also, if you run in to issues you may end up calling a professional anyways.

Otherwise it can be quite difficult to get the epoxy or glue to hold.

You shouldn’t cut directly on the stone or place hot pans directly on the stone.

The problem is we have many little cracks/holes throughout the entire countertop that look like this.

More than likely the previous owners weren’t resealing annually (lots of people don’t or don’t think it’s that important) and/or were treating the countertop roughly.

We pay a fortune to find the least interesting looking granite that isn’t prone to these problems.

But since he already has perfectly good granite countertops, there really is no good reason to replace them.

For the cost of quartz or granite, you could replace the formica countertops yearly.

I would definitely try to fill it, or call someone to come out and do it.

They are inclusions where mineral deposits wear away from friction against other minerals.

You can also call them and get other ideas or recommendations for chip fills.

It seems to dark for an ornamental, but santa cecelia would also be a close one as well.

Filing those pits and fissures is a relativity easy fix for a professional.

You will spend more money buying the proper equipment to do what you want (right) then you would paying a reputable granite company to make the repairs.

You definitely want to fill pits and fissures before sealing.

It’s fairly normal for certain types of granite to have pits and fissures.

Wipe up spills promptly, especially liquids with strong pigment.

The polish would take time which is what would rack up the bill.

How To Polish Granite by todayshomeowner.com

They came back several times to polish this but it still looks dull.

I have had no luck in making the edge look the least little bit shiny.

If you decide to give it a try, you’ll need to use a grinder or stone polisher equipped with various grit diamond pads (these may be rented at tool rental centers).

Be sure to wear the proper safety equipment including a dust mask, safety glasses or goggles, and ear protection.

Despite the emerald in the name, the colour of our granite is more black than green.

I believe it was due to the fact that we have very hard water.

I applied a dab to a cotton cloth (old diaper) and used my index finger in circular motions from the outside edge of the stains toward the centre.

Nonetheless the other areas that were stained/marked now look the same as the rest of my counter again… it’s been about two weeks.

Is this going to require someone stripping down the entire countertop or can it be polished out along the edges where the cleaner was sprayed?

Later, when your fabricator cut the slab, the freshly-cut edges were dull and less colorful than the top.

Be sure to blue-tape the top in a nice, straight line before you apply the enhancer to the edges.

Couple passes with each pad working from 50 grit up to 3000 grit then the buff pad.

I would not recommend a homeowner trying on their own because it does take a huge amount of skill and good supplies.

If your granite has already been partially polished, you can skip the lower grits.

Unfortunately, the edges around the sink as well as the surface by the faucet became quite dull and cloudy.

It was given to me but it required three men to carry it in my house because it is very heavy.

If you have alot of edges, buy two 50 grit pads because those get used the most.

Keep in mind the pads are diamond as well as diamond blade to cut the granite.

The polishing pads were pricey at 10 dollars a peice and you need to buy the backing pad to use them on the 4′ grinder.

The granit is light colored so it is hard to see when looking straight down on it but when the sun is shining and you are looking from an angle you can see the cloudiness.

I have installed a soft-water heater but would like to re-polish the granite.

Can a granite company polish it back to it’s original finish.

You may just want to call another company to fix it which will probably cost the same amount as you buying supplies to do so yourself.

The Lowcountry Lady: Big Green Egg: Concrete Top Table Plans by thelowcountrylady.blogspot.com

To start the base/frame for your table, cut your lumber down to size.

Kreg 2 1/2″ outdoor screws (the blue ones) to connect the boards.

If you’re using treated lumber, allow the wood to cure for at least 3 weeks before you stain or paint.

Use wood screws every 8″ – 10″ to assemble the mold (pre drill so the melamine doesn’t expand).

Caulk all of the edges and around the styrofoam with latex caulk.

Place the rebar or chicken wire on top of the layer of concrete.

Using a board that is wider than your mold, smooth out the surface of the concrete by shimmying the board back and forth from one end of the table to the other.

Cover the concrete with plastic and let it cure for 2 – 3 days.

Get your tabletop and egg slab ready for finishing by making sure it is on a steady surface and in a place that can get very messy.

Fill in all of the holes exposed by sanding with the concrete.

Now that your egg slab is ready, you can complete the rest of your table frame.

Place pot feet on the slab for the egg to sit on (good for circulation).

If you haven’t figured out a solution by the fall, check back in with us and we may be able to help you out.

If you go through with your project, stop back by to let me know what you decide on for your hardware.

A friend of ours used our plans to build their table, but like you, preferred to buy a kit for their barn door.

Our egg is a large, so you’re definitely going to need to adjust.

Also, you may want to measure from the lip of the egg to the bottom of the egg to determine if the shelf that your egg will sit on needs to be higher or lower.

We choose a walnut color and did two or three coats.

I just did a wood top with 1×6 slats and shortened the width a little bit.

Also, did you use any anchors to attach the top to the base or is gravity doing all the work?

We cut the corregated metal so that it would be just large enough to overlap the boards surrounding it, and placed it inside the table.

Are you sure it was 1/2″ or perhaps was it 3/4″ thick?

I will take pictures and capture measurements along the way and would be willing to share the results.

I hope you’ll come back and share pictures of you’re table when you’re done.

I just have a question on how did you build the cabinet door?

When we couldn’t find the perfect table, we set out to build our own.

I haven’t provided measurements or specific number of boards.

Starting with the legs and the 2 x 6 boards that connect the top of frame, assemble your frame.

After the wood is dry, stain or paint the frame (you could move on and start working on the top while you wait for the frame to dry).

Place your styrofoam circle (measure twice, placement is very important!

Cover all exposed edges of the mold with painters tape (this is very important because if concrete gets in, the moisture will cause the melamine to expand).

Remove any major air bubbles by running a vibrating sander all around the exterior of the mold (you could also tap the sides with a hammer).

Un-mold your tabletop by flipping it over (you’ll likely need help for this part) onto a steady surface.

Setup the orbital wet grinder according to the product directions.

Starting with a 50 grit sanding pad, sand the entire tabletop and outside edges.

Apply a sealer to the tabletop and egg slab according to product directions.

One way to carry the top is to place it onto two long 2 x 4s, get someone to help and carry the top kind of like you’re carrying a gurney.

You’re ready to place your egg in your brand new table!

We aren’t in a position to be able to build any new tables right now.

We made the barn door hardware with materials from the local big box hardware store.

You’ll need to adjust the diameter of the hole for the egg, of course.

I don’t have the measurements for the cover anymore, but they are very helpful and will make sure your cover is just the right size for your table if you give them a call.

I have literally never built anything before and my table came out great.

I also decided to use fire bricks under the egg and put casters on it for easy maneuverability.

We then attached it with several screws along the perimeter.

After a bit of conferring on our end, we think you’re right and that we did use 3/4″.

We put the metal in first, attached the the metal with screws, then put the shelf in.

Design Ideas: Types Of Wood and Wood Specifications For Interiors by homedesignbangalore.com

However plywood comes in many specifications based on the chemical treatment of the wood and the glue used to bind the sheets together which determines its type of use – see the specifications section below.

As is obvious from its construction block board has higher resistance against warping or bending.

Not so premium but good quality brands that you suggest ?

They say the quality is in the premium levels like hettich and cost is low coz its made in india.

Coming to the hinged doors (for wardrobes esp), my carpenter says the good old hinges (conventional stuff) are better and last longer than 0 crank box hinges (from hettich/enox/ebco etc).

I have also checked out some shops for edge banding, but most of them say its not as durable as the regular solid wood beading.

Also zero crank hinges are no worse than butt hinges or piano hinges2.

I am currently renovating my house and all material used is my responsibility.

Will using block board increase the cost of the interiors?

I have recently purchased a house where an initial level of woodwork has been completed, including the kitchen carcass.

There are minor differences in each but the finish (hi gloss) is broadly the same.

Since it will be heavy, some suggested me to use 19mm board with 6/9mm frame/beeding.

Particle board is the cheapest of the above 3 options, it however has least resistance to moisture.

Can u plz even let us know what is the best thickness for the laminates we use on the outer side and also the inner.

I am planning to do the interiors for my home and since i like involving myself into this kinda work, i plan to get things done by a carpenter.

Board which has a smooth american tulip style veneered face on both sides.

This can also be painted inside & polished outside (melamine is what i m looking at).

I dont think its hard, but i guess i need to tell him clearly on “how-to” and give him materials.

I want to do it myself to have my say & knowledge on materials, but at the same time, i dont want to end up in a messed-up wood work.

I have read through your archives completely 🙂 and now a lot more informed than before !

I decided to stay away from sliding stuff completely because i felt it needs a little more care than normal hinged variety.

I think with these, the aesthetics are most affected, with a beading coming into the picture ?

Do you have any experience using this adhesive (3m) ?

Was eager to ask you that there was something called rubber wood (used to be fancy stuff about 7 yrs ago).

Just a quick query, for the main door and bedroom door i am using commercial ply, what is the ideal thickness for the same.

What do you think the thickness of laminate should be?

3.

What do you think the thickness of laminate should be?

Repairing Cracks In Granite Countertops by countertopspecialty.com

My husband also realized that there is no plywood support underneath the countertops, which really raises more concern for us at this point.

Although, your installer may not be the best one for the job.

A hairline crack can occur during install as the extremely heavy and rigid slab is moved into place.

Separated cracks have a gap, are easily seen and felt, and have a lip.

Cracks in granite are repaired first by filling with an acrylic or using a color-matched epoxy to glue the pieces back together.

Either way the crack will remain easily visible and palpable unless the surface is then re-polished.

Polishing granite cracks to remove the edges of the crack and knowing how to blend the crack itself with the surrounding surface color and shine requires experience, knowledge and skill.

Most fabricators / installers focus on installing and not repairing.

Small cracks usually don’t pose any cleaning issues, and stains are rarely a problem, but applying a little extra sealer over a crack isn’t a bad idea.

Many granite countertop colors don’t have any fissures, others just a few and some patterns have many running all over.

Fissures are typically curved and do not run in straight lines or have angular zig-zags, but sometimes look like cracks.

Cracks have an edge you can feel or catch with a fingernail.

Cracks can be short, long, surface or full-thickness of the slab.

A tile countertop would need the plywood or backer board underlayment, but it’s unnecessary for a slab countertop.

A plywood substrate is sometimes used to create a level surface when cabinets/floors are not level.

The cracked corner probably occurred during moving and installing the granite counter top slab.

Contact your installer or a granite repair specialist and see what is needed to fix the cracked corner.

If it’s a hairline crack with minimal lip, it likely won’t get worse or cause any future problem.

They could make a solid repair but almost certainly it would be visible.

My countertop just got a crack behind the faucet, above where the reinforcement rod is cut in.

The installer said it’s because the rod was wet when installed.

And if the rust stain is showing on the top surface of the countertop, then definitely from a leak.

The sink is usually glued to the underside of the countertop and not clamped.

Possibly it needs to be re-glued, supported, and re-caulked.

It’s a good idea to have a granite fabricator / contractor come give an opinion.

Worst case scenario is that it gets worse or cracks through and a section of the countertop needs to be replaced.

You may find something very close, but each granite slab is unique and the color can vary a lot.

So, you do want to make sure that further damage requiring replacement is unlikely.

We tried to get the installer to come and look at it but was unsuccessful.

We suspect it might be there for a while and we just missed it or didn’t pay much attention during the home inspection.

I would like to have your advice on whether we can seal the crack by ourselves or would be better off to find professionals to do the job.

Not just any granite fabricator, but a stone repair specialist.

Some will remain as is and never cause any problem or get worse.

Applying epoxy can stabilize the crack, but may not really make it look any better.

It is possible to repair many granite cracks to like-new condition, but this requires experience and specific skill.

Type of granite is a factor in the cost and labor/install costs vary from city to city.

Usually this person has enough experience to know their value and won’t be the cheapest.

So, you don’t have to be too worried about creating a crack once installed.

For instance: a refrigerator tips over when moving and cracks the countertop edge.

Vibration from machinery and/or earthquakes can lead to granite cracks as well.

Others argue that rodding only serves to weaken the slab because grooves or slots are cut into the granite for inserting the rods.

A laminated edge is fine with 2cm, but often doesn’t work so well with a 3cm slab since the edge then becomes too big.

Despite all best efforts and care sometimes a crack develops in weaker areas.

But if only a hairline crack it may go unnoticed or even when noticed installed anyway because these are almost never a problem, will remain stable and do not affect the performance of the counter top.

However , eleven months after install it’s impossible to tell if the installers are somehow to blame, so not really fair or productive to accuse them at this point.

If the crack can only be felt by running your finger tip or fingernail over it and there isn’t any lip, then it probably won’t be an issue.

Cracks in granite countertops around the sink most often are just hairline cracks without a lip and never really present a problem other than a bit of frustration that it exists.

Not too noticeable, but we are concerned about any additional problems it might cause.

Typically, such cracks happen around sinks or other cutouts with thin sections of granite.

But it can happen even with the most careful install and there’s no guarantee it won’t happen with the replacement slab.

In some cases, additional support in the area could be beneficial.

The typical granite installer is not experienced enough to artfully repair a crack in granite.

Installers can do minor repairs, but granite crack repair is a major repair (with a separated crack).

The choice here depends on the nature and severity of the crack.

This is why you want an experienced granite counter repair pro.

Luckily, since it’s in the corner, even a mediocre repair won’t be very noticeable and isn’t a structural issue.

When the crack in a granite countertop is only a short, hairline crack it rarely presents any real problems or gets worse.

Long or full-thickness cracks and/or areas with multiple cracks likely need repair.

Fissures are weak points and can become a “crack” from impact or stressful forces during transportation, installation or after.

Cracks in granite are most commonly “hairline”, but can be wider.

Cracks typically occur at sink and cooktop cutouts, edges and corners.

Or to elevate the kitchen countertop when a laminated edge is used, which helps keep the edge from interfering with the drawers.

But it can likely be repaired reasonably well, and if in a back corner, you simply won’t notice it that much (if at all).

There is a line of rust along the edge of the rod seam near to where the faucet is located.

I say it’s from moisture leaking from my improperly attached under mount sink.

If the rust staining on the stone seems extensive, then probably from a leak.

It would take some time and a consistent water source to cause that.

There is a seam (not the best place for a seam, but work was completed awhile ago) also above the dishwasher.

But honestly, it’s hard to say without assessing it in person.

Consider that if it does get worse it likely can be repaired, but would likely require a skilled stone restoration professional.

In this case, it will be nearly impossible to find a slab that will exactly match what is currently in place.

Finding a match that doesn’t come from the same slab bundle as the original slab is very difficult in many cases.

I took a permanent marker and traced the crack then wiped off the residue.

The kitchen was renovated about 5 years ago by the previous owners.

It should be filled with an epoxy or acrylic glue and repaired.

Try to color match the glue or possibly using a clear acrylic will make for a more invisible repair.

Much of this depends on the location of the crack, how well supported, degree of use in the area, etc.

The average fabricator / installer is not necessarily the best choice for repair.

The best choice would be to just leave the cracks alone or at least monitor for a while (a few months) and see if they separate.

The piece has to be bull-nosed on the edge and of course cut on the inside.

Of course, it’s more important to hire the person who is skilled and competent.

Usually cracks that occur after installation are due to an accident.

Granite is tough and durable, but rigid, so it’s helpful to keep this in mind.

There is some controversy in the industry regarding support.

This is a process to insert metal rods in the underside of the slab.

Molding matching the cabinets can be used, but looks a bit wonky.

So, even with plywood raising the level of the slab, the laminated edge hiding the plywood may interfere with the drawers, etc.

Usually this happens simply because a granite slab is extremely heavy and difficult to maneuver.

If a major crack occurs during install any reputable fabricator will, repair the crack, cut out and replace the area if possible or simply eat the cost and start over.

However, if the crack has a lip and/or it looks to go all the way through the entire slab, then you may have an issue and it could get worse, especially around the sink.

Possibly a simple repair or extra support could be added to stabilize the area.

All Boats by antiqueboatamerica.com

Sold complete with a full mooring cover, trailering cover, and custom trailer.

Most everything on the boat is original except for some instruments and the removal of the bow to stern handrail.

It is starting to need some varnish and paint to make it sparkle again.

The boat trailer and motor are all in 100% mint condition and fully restored.

The top, interior cabinets and upholstering needs refurbishing.

Restoration work done by a well known, world class restoration shop.

The boat has been stored for many tears indoors and is now ready to be brought back out and used.

Bought for a project and stored indoors, but another engine was used in its place.

Combining classic runabout features and modern automotive styling, the model was very successful and practical in a wide variety of uses.

In 2017 she went through a meticulous 12 month restoration which brought her back again to excellent sailing condition.

All new chrome, windshield is buffed to clear and nice, and single axle custom trailer.

She has been out of the water for a few years, but still in very nice user-condition.

I have owned the boat since 1994 and it has been in a garage under going a very slow rework since purchase.

Mechanicals are done, new cushions, new drive shaft, rebuilt carb.

The boat has always been stored indoors in either cold or heated storage and is now ready for a new custodian.

Owners traded up to a 40 and sadly must part with this cherished gem.

She s ready for another owner to care for and love her!

The paint, varnish, hardware, and interior are all in excellent condition.

This example has been comprehensively restored with a no soak 5200 bottom, laminated sides, transom, and decks.

She still sits on the original trailer, which is a classic in its own right with 1930s style wheel covers.

The trailer has also been used almost always as a storage trailer.

The boat has all the original upholstery which is in good condition.

I have used this boat at a local lake to just cruise around and no longer have time to enjoy it.

Construction included white oak frames, cypress planks and a mahogany deck.

She is a good reliable user boat that is priced very fairly.

Complete condition, and believed to be running when removed from a boat.

In 2017-18 she underwent a roll-over and replacement of a section of the keel, both garboard planks and several ribs.

The engine, starter motor and alternator were rebuilt, and the exhaust pipes were replaced.

Has an outboard motor well that will hold 5-6hp short shaft engine.

All of the woodwork was done roughly 25 years ago, then the boat went into dry storage.

All of the hardware appears to be present with the exception of the rubrails.

This would be a great boat to get someone into wood boating at a reasonable cost.

The original 2-tone dove blue and cream interior is in nice condition.

This is a great entry-level boat that performs well!

Owner saw boat when he was 6years old. bought boat when he was in his 60s.

Electrical system updated with two six volt bat teries to run the 6 volt original system plus a new bilge pump on 12 volts.

The engiens receives oil changes every 50 hours and again at the end of each season and the boat comes complete with all manuals and documentation.

Since then, the vessel has been lovingly owned, used frequently, and professionally cared for each winter.

Chrome accents were added to the functional windows at this time.

In 2017, the notable blue topsides were professionally refinished and the original generator was replaced with a modern single-wire alternator kit for improved reliability.

The boat sat unused for a number of years and received a complete restoration between 1986 and 1996.

Composite construction with a fiberglass hull and stunning mahogany decks.

Only 3 of these boats were built with the 4-seat configuration with the extended side window.

Cool Places To Stay by cntraveller.com

The palatial stables, alongside an enclosed riding ring, house 54 horses and is equipped with its own birthing room, ultrasound facilities and operating theatre.

The standard casita has a large bed with fine linen and a marble bathroom with walk-in shower and twin sinks.

You’ll get an aerial tour of the neighbouring sugar cane fields, pineapple plantations, and coffee bushes shaded from the sun by orange-flowering poro trees.

It had it all, or almost all: superb restaurants, darling boutiques, oodles of charm.

A colour palette of wood, stone and muted gold gives the rooms a tranquil feel; gauzy mosquito nets add a hint of airy romance.

Simple breakfasts of fresh fruit, eggs and pastries are served in the lofty, light-filled communal space with a living wall of yuccas and orchids.

The minimalist white and grey rooms come in all shapes and sizes, with tall round windows that give out on the busy avenue and a pretty renovated square.

Along a narrow cobbled street ending with a quiet square, the hotel is a box-fresh and minutely-renovated historic building.

There’s a 24-7 on-call mixologist, if you want to get the party started in your room.

The main hall, with its decadently high ceilings, was formerly the entrance to the stables; it now leads to the beautiful reception, sitting room and bar.

Most of the bedrooms overlook the courtyard, dotted with painted wooden staircases leading ever-upwards towards a savage flash of blue sky.

Then branch off right through an almond grove and take a dip in the river, listening to the sound of the frogs as the sun sinks behind the hills.

Smaller and simpler than the villa, they are also more affordable, and guests still get exclusive use of the entire estate.

The food is excellent, produced with a light touch (octopus and shrimp ceviche; a scallop salad) by smiling staff in the open kitchen.

You can swim, dive, fish, surf or paddleboard in the ocean; hike or bike among the flora and fauna on 22km of trails; or practise yoga at the hotel’s open-air pavilion.

Private tours off the estate include zip-lining, whitewater river rafting and birdwatching.

Up on the magnificent roof terrace with its views of the verdant hills, guests sip sundowners round the glorious pool.

Rooms were sparcely furnished; bathrooms were more water closets than washrooms; the whole roof needed replacing.

A rooftop infinity pool sprouting with masses of yellow flowers overlooks more ancient roofs, and will be unquantifiably welcome when heat descends on the city in its barrier of fire (sometimes over 50 degrees).

The 152 rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows and generous balconies with views of the bay.

It hits all the right notes: simple, sensational and wonderfully flavoured.

The 137 bedrooms are in two neat wings, and as fresh and elegant as the rest.

A spa and brasserie will be completed by the end of the year.

Up to now the choice has traditionally been ‘hotel or rented flat?

‘, but recently a small crop of what might be termed ‘curated apartments’ have begun to bridge the gap.

The 15 grand bedrooms, including a couple of duplex suites, are on the first and second floors.

Painted classic ochre and white, the exterior looks especially pretty at dusk, when candles are lit in jars, flickering gregariously as guests roll and bump their cases out of taxis and across the cobbles.

Some suites are as big as apartments and feel quite modern, with sheeny wetrooms, simple whitewashed walls and cast-iron beds.

Stand shoulder-deep at the lip of the infinity pool, transfixed by that view, until brown pelicans fly past at eye level and a pair of forked tail, wide-winged frigatebirds patrol high above them.

The wonderfully fresh mahi-mahi, pago (red snapper) sea bass and snook tastes all the better when served direct from the grill.

Then laze in the sunshine, cooled by a breeze, with book or drink in hand, relishing your good fortune.

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