It features a unique internal dust collection system for cleaner operation. Replacing this wing with a router table is an excellent modification to your saw. An internal chamber connects the router bit opening on the top surface with a shop vacuum connection on the bottom. Build the frame from 1×4 solid wood to the dimensions determined in the previous step. Butt-joint the frame pieces using 2″ screws and yellow glue.Then mark the location of the bolt holes for attaching the frame to the saw table.
The transferred paint clearly shows the hole location on the wood frame. Drill these holes and elongate them, and all others, for later height adjustment.
You may not be able to use the original fasteners that came with the saw. The bolt holes should be large enough to allow for some fine-tuning. Once set into place, its top surface should be flush with the top of the frame.
Router Direction Trimming Formica Plastic Laminate | Duration 2 Minutes 6 Seconds
Looking from below, you will see that the plywood has likely blocked access to the fasteners.
You can now cut away small areas of plywood so that you have room to get a wrench onto the bolt heads. Next, it’s time to rout a recess in the top of the plywood layer that will become the internal dust conveying chamber and to drill a hole for the vacuum connection. Note the diagonal cross lines that mark the table’s center point. I tacked four temporary guides to the plywood to help me rout the rectangular portion of the recess, then routed the rounded ends freehand. The author attached temporary guides to limit the router’s travel for this task. Measure the largest diameter of the collet; the bit opening in the plywood layer should be slightly larger, but not more than about 1/8″. The plywood should be flush with the top of the frame, with the vacuum outlet oriented to the back side of the saw. Mea- sure the outside dimensions of the frame and add an inch to that length and width, so that there will be 1/2″ overhang on all sides of the frame. Dowel spacers make it easier to position the laminate accurately. It is critical to position the top bit opening directly over the bottom bit opening in the plywood layer.
Now carefully mark the position, and glue the top layer to the plywood layer. When you clamp the layers together, be sure they don’t slip out of position!
Next, turn the table over and place the router over the bit opening. There are two im- portant issues here: 1) the holes must not go through the internal chamber, and 2) the router must be positioned so that the bit is dead center in the top bit opening. After the holes are drilled, turn the table back over and countersink the holes. Now attach the 21⁄2″ dust port connection, and the table is done. When you get the table loosely attached, place a straightedge on the table surface of the saw, and check that it is level and well aligned. Now you’re ready to put it into service by making some test cuts!
It is convenient, saves valuable floor space, and it’s inexpensive to build. Dust and chips are vacuumed away down the bit opening as soon as they are cut. There’s no special fence with vacuum openings and no hoses on the table. I chose mine to extend to the end of the fence rails, which on my saw is 161⁄2″. So build the frame first; that way you can deal with unique mounting require- ments and interferences from the get-go.
The width is critical; the frame should fit snugly between the saw rails. Then add a ledge inside the frame to support the top; this ledge should be at a depth equal to the thickness of the bottom plywood layer. Install ledges inside the table framework to support the bottom plywood layer. Since the middle and top layers will rest on top of the frame, set the top of the frame about 5/16″ lower than the cast- iron saw surface and mark this location. I dabbed black paint around the bolt holes, then pressed the frame against the top. Leave the frame in place for now; you will be making minor adjustments to subsequent components for access to the fasteners you just installed. Notice that initially, the plywood layer will block access to the bolt holes when resting on the ledges. Mark the location of all fasteners, and turn the plywood layer over. Place the plywood back into the frame and check your wrench access to the fasteners. Assuming you will be connecting the vacuum hose from the back of the saw, the routed recess and drilled hole will look like the photo at left. Rout a 1/2″-deep recess as shown in the drawing, then drill the 2″-diameter vacuum outlet hole with a hole saw.
Laminate Countertop Trimming/Router Trick | Duration 3 Minutes 12 Seconds
The diameter for the bottom bit opening will depend upon the size of your router’s collet. I drilled the bit opening at the center with a 1-1⁄4″ hole saw. With the frame still in the saw, dry-fit the plywood into the frame. Cut them both oversized to begin with — you’ll trim them down later. The next step is to glue the top layers onto the plywood bottom layer. Once the layers are in correct arrangement, clamp them together and remove the router. After deciding these details, you can drill the holes for the router mounting screws. A good way to mark the screw locations is to use the router’s subbase as a template.
Router Laminate Countertop Edge | Duration 11 Seconds
Your router’s baseplate makes an excellent template for determining where to drill the attachment screws for the router base.
You may have to ream out a bolt hole or two in the frame to get the router table flush and level with the saw table. The internal chamber allows a shop vac to draw debris away from close to the router with no hose obstructions above the table.
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The keys to routing clean edges are using a sharp bit and running the router in a counterclockwise direction around the top of the workpiece. But the counterclockwise wood routing technique doesn’t always work perfectly. Solve the problem by “climb-cutting” (or cutting clockwise) for a couple of inches on the end grain at the “northeast” and “southwest” corners of the board. But if you’re edge-routing the inside of something, like a picture frame, rout in a clockwise direction. If the wood burns, sneak up on the final cut depth by making three consecutively deeper cuts (see photos, below). Clamps get in the way of the router and it’s hard to keep the base from rocking on the narrow surface. Screw a stop to the bench at the end of the board to keep it from slipping.Dadoes (or grooves) are the cleanest, strongest way to invisibly support shelves on the sides of cabinets or bookcases. The easy way to make them is with a wood router and a straight bit plus a simple homemade jig. Make the 1×6 a few inches longer than the wood you’re routing plus an extra 1-1/2 in. Buy a bit that matches the desired dado width so you can make the cut in one pass. Check the new dado with a square to make sure the jig is square and you’re ready for the real thing. Cut only on the right side of the jig and push the router away from you; the turning direction of the wood router bit will pull the router base against the jig.
Best Router Bit For Trimming Laminate Veneer | Duration 6 Minutes
Various bearing sizes allow you to adjust the width of the rabbet cut. That way the plywood back will be flush with the back of the cabinet. Patterns allow you to make multiple copies of nearly any shape with a router and a bottom-bearing flush trim router bit. After you finish cutting the pattern and smoothing its edges, trace the shape onto the stock you’re planning to cut. Don’t worry about getting a smooth, even cut; the flush trim bit will clean up the imperfections. If both sides will show, use thin brads and carefully pry the pieces apart after routing and patch the holes.
You may not be able to finish the edge in one continuous motion. You’ll probably have to stop, shift the piece, reclamp and resume routing to finish the edge. Carbide bits cost about three times as much as high-speed steel ones, but they stay sharper at least 10 times longer. Examine the collet (where the bit inserts) on your router to determine the bit shank size(s) it can handle. With that size, there’s less deflection in the shank, which means less wobble and cleaner cuts. That way, the bit pushes the router toward you rather than pulling it away, so it’s easier to control and safer. Then start anywhere on the workpiece and run the wood router around the wood counterclockwise.Always test your cuts on a similar scrap of wood to confirm proper cutting depth. Some wood species tend to chip more than others, so run a test on a scrap board of the same species. Solve both problems by screwing to the workbench a support board that’s the same thickness as the workpiece. That gives the router a wider surface to rest on, eliminating any rocking and forces the workpiece against the support board and the stop, so it doesn’t need clamps. Once you try this jig, dadoes will become standard in your shelf-building repertoire. Clamp the jig (front and back) on a test piece of wood, then set the straight bit 1/4 in. If you rout on the left side of the jig, the router will tend to wander away from the jig and you’ll wind up with a run-amuck dado. Rabbets are grooves that are cut into the back edge of cabinet or bookcase sides for insetting plywood backs. The key to good rabbets is to use special rabbet bits that automatically cut the perfect width. To use a rabbet bit, first select the pilot bearing that will cut a groove the same thickness as the plywood back. Then adjust the depth of the router so the bit will cut about 1/2 in. The thinner material won’t give enough depth for the pilot bearing to ride on. Cut out the shape with a band saw, jigsaw or scroll saw about 1/8 to 1/4 in. Attach the pattern to the stock with a few drywall screws, but be careful to select shank lengths that won’t poke through the “show side” of the workpiece. Then it’s just a matter of flipping over the assembly, clamping, and running the flush trim bit around the pattern to create the duplicates. They’re cheap, but they won’t hold an edge for long and they don’t have ball-bearing pilots, so you’re more likely to burn and tear the wood.