Rust Oleum Countertops Transformations Transformation At Lowe

The annual award represents outstanding achievement for ten of the most innovative products, selected out of thousands. It perfectly complements kitchens with stark colors, white cabinets and stainless steel appliances. Cracks, chips, deeper cuts or dents can be repaired by filling them with a 2-part epoxy putty. What if the chips did not adhere to the base coat or were accidentally removed during appllication?

After 4 hours, the repaired area can be sanded to match the surrounding countertop.Be thorough about pressing in the edge to ensure none of the coating will bleed through.

If you are planning on replacing your sink in the near future, now is an ideal time. Never use harsh chemicals or super-abrasives to clean your countertops. The easiest way to avoid stains is to not let spills sit on the surface. My countertops are beautiful, durable, and fit within my tight budget. This attractive neutral color works best with lighter color walls and works beautifully with every wood color and appliance style.When the putty dries, sand the area until it is even with the surrounding surface. The original countertop needs to be in good structural condition before refinishing. Mask the sink and adjacent areas using smooth painters tape. To clean the surface, use a damp cloth or sponge and a mild soap or detergent. Trivets and potholders will protect against heat damage, and using cutting boards for food prep will eliminate any chance of scratching. With normal use and proper care, your refinished surfaces will last for years.

Paper Bag Floors by domesticimperfection.com

I just got a wild hair and started moving furniture and tearing stuff apart. After you do this (and even if you don’t) make sure to clean the floors thoroughly and let them dry before you start. Use your hands to scoop up some glue and spread it evenly over both sides. Keep in mind that the paper will shrink as it dries, so give each piece a decent amount of overlap.

Plus staining is the quickest part of this whole process (if you do it correctly). It looks better than fine actually, it looks freaking awesome.

We used it when we refinished the center hall and kitchen of our house, and i’ve noticed that it 1) doesn’t hold up to chairs dragging across it and 2) it doesn’t hold up to acid-based spills (like orange juice, vinegar or dog pee). I have a couple suggestions for you to cut costs and make the job go easier. I could do a 12 x 12 room in a couple days with 10 coats of poly on it. Is a reason that oil based stain is used and not a water based one?

I would hate to see you invest precious time and effort into a project that would produce such beautiful results then risk the rewards to ruination by rain. I need to “glue down” where the paint/stain is peeling then re-paint the entire area. I work in nyc for a restoration company and we do wax and wood floors with multiple kinds of finishes and sealers. We’ve ripped up the carpet on all but the kitchen and it’s some kind of weird vinyl flooring. I have been told by readers that this will not work on a concrete floor that hasn’t previously been sealed. What you want to do is rip the paper into natural looking pieces, kinda like stones. Don’t mix all your glue at once, gluing the paper to the floor will take longer than you think and you don’t want it to dry out.



Then lay your paper down on the floor and smooth flat, working from the inside out to remove any bubbles. It looked as though the poly had dried white only on one side of the paper. I was terrified that after all that work it would dry white again, but it didn’t, not even a little. As an added bonus, the water based poly has almost no smell at all, so your not going to need to air out your house or feel lightheaded while doing this. Actually another reader commented after you that she has has it in her master bathroom for three years and it is still going strong!

Seven years later, we have to refinish all the floors and use oil-based poly, even though it takes forever to dry and smells bad. It’s not holding up badly by any means….but it could be doing better. I spent forever cutting out the pictures then put them on the walls with wallpaper paste. Makes me wonder if it is still there, or did someone paint over it?

If you were very careful to only keep one side up, do you think you would have the same tone throughout?

I suggest using a 9 inch roller on an extension pole to save your back. Just make sure that the paste, stain and poly are completely dry before moving to the next step. Adam is a little nervous about selling our house with paper floors. Who knows, but it’s encouraging to hear your experience!

I didn’t think about the water based stain soaking into the paper and water-logging it. I really should have tried it on my floors…totally didn’t think about that till just now. Hubby also questioned mixing water based poly and oil based stain. The water based poly is specially formulated to go over oil based stain…any old water based poly won’t work. Moisture trapped under a clear finish will appear as white spots similar to water rings left by a glass or from hot pizza on a paper plate on your coffee table—these are both simply moisture being trapped directly beneath the wax surface, with a clear finish on a damp concrete floor, the same effect is likely.

You may consider a concrete stain finish that may be applied in layers and varied colors which produce a striking effect. I think the answer will be the concrete stain if we decide to do anything with it. I had someone come up and pressure wash it, what a mess!

I started on the living room, the poly and paper would not adhesive.

How To Create A Weathered Wood Look With Paint by blesserhouse.com

And if you mess up, you can erase some of the dark wax by going back over it with clear. Why does the table look so smooth in the before and rough cut with the coco on it?

It has a thin veneer on the top so i couldnt sand it down to the bare wood. Once wax is applied, you can’t put a sealer coat on top or it’ll create quite a mess. It’s so hard to keep up with how quickly this blogging world evolves every day. Excuse my ignorance, but would it be durable for everyday use and does the wax make the finish sticky?

This finish is better for pieces that won’t get a lot of regular wear and tear. I want to do this on my dining table, do you think it would hold up?

You inspired me to paint my kitchen table and chairs and reupholster the chairs. I actually use socks all the time for wax, especially clear wax.

You could really use it over top of any paint or stain color. I have seen other tutorials which shows the dark wax needing to be rubbed in, but wasn’t sure if you did that for this look or not.

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Granite Countertops For Under $90.00 Believe It! | Duration 2 Minutes 21 Seconds

Just make sure to wipe the wax in the same direction to give it a bit of a wood grain look (not a circular motion). It does look smooth some places, but the top definitely textured. Just make sure you work in small sections at a time as wax can dry fairly quickly. I didn’t have to spend hours in my garage scraping stripping goop.

You are very creative – thanks for sharing your creativity with us!

I usually have to put a coat of clear wax down first on most pieces so the dark wax isn’t as harsh. The table actually had a rough cut look before you just couldn’t see it with the black, so the weathered wood look helped accentuate that. The finish will be more durable with regular wear and tear that way. That way if people put their feet up on it or set a drink down, it will have some extra protection. Mayflower) lol…seriously though…love your posts, your tutorials are great and your style is really fun. It’s not a forever table, just using it until my husband makes one. Do you think it’s okay to use socks instead of wax brushes?

I will say, you might want to do a polyurethane on a table top you eat off of instead of wax because the wax can rub off, especially with drink glasses and hot plates sitting on top.Any suggestions or do you think it will be okay just starting as directed?

I painted it with two coats so that none of the black was showing through and didn’t even sand it to distress and show the color underneath. I would rough it up just a little bit with fine grit sandpaper in case there is any residue like wood oil on it just to be safe. I would love to install a wooden (kitchen) countertop and use your technique to achieve that great color–can you seal it for use in a kitchen?

And unfortunately, you can’t seal over wax with poly as it becomes a big gummy mess. Would the chalk paint work on that and would it give the same color finish if the surface is smooth with no grooves?

My Kitchen Failure and Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations by thebloominghydrangea.com

I did this step correctly as it is the most important step in the process so that your paint “bonds” to the wood. Next was setting up a spot for the cabinet doors to rest on while they were being painted. There’s nothing worse than being in the middle of a big project and feeling disappointed. What a bummer…but it’s 5 o’clock somewhere, right?

However, you do still need an extra coat to get the look you want. At least it sounds like you can get your money back, or something!

I only just recently had to touch up a few places around the knobs of the most abused cabinet doors. The original cabinets that came standard with the houses are gorgeous. When cleaning the cabinets with the de-glosser we were extremely thorough.

We love our results, and have had no streaks or peeling. If you live in a home that has smokers, cook with grease etc you should clean 2 to 3 times with fresh tsp. I would personally grab a orbit sander with 80 grit, sand those that did not adhere and re apply. Or is it possible to use a sponge/ foam type brush to eliminate that streaking?

I achieved excellent bond and a finish stronger than the original. However, some parts of the cabinet did not want to take the bond coat easily so therefore, there was a lot of touching up that was required after a day of allowing the bond coat to dry which took up more of my time. I took it inside the house to see if it was noticeable and under my kitchen light it was definitely noticeable. I washed and scrubbed my cabinets and frames with soap and water. I wasn’t crazy, just the cabinets are for sure streaky looking and need more paint. It stinks that it doesn’t cover well and we have to redo things, as you know it’s a lot of painting and prep!

We’re painting my brother’s this week-end with the kit!

The thought of sanding and repainting must be such a headache. I am thinking you may have to sand them all down and start from scratch. Good luck…and if they don’t get done before your trip, it’s not the end of the world.

You may just go back to a paint you trust at this point and just paint right over what you have. Thanks, though, for often being the guinea pig and steering us away from the losers!

Then the cabinets needed about 3-4 coats of paint to cover them and it was very streaky. Although we will still lose some money for the items that were required in addition to the kit. Getting ready to now do our bathroom cabinets with the same product. That house is off my list and that is something for homeowners to think about. And although the color was whiter than expected, results were perfect.

We also used the espresso finish in our bathrooms, and plan on using the rustoleum again as we love it so much!

I had a friend do her bathroo cabinets with it and was amazing!

If you do not clean first, you are sanding the oils and dirt into the surface. I have never used this particular product so don’t know if that’s ok with the manufacturer. Used an 80 grit and then a 200 grit… probably took less time than the de-glossing step. I used the dark kit for the vanity and the light kit for the kitchen.