Our goal is to bring a fresh and exciting new look to your countertops, cabinets, backsplashes and floors.
Our product lines offer a variety of options and an opportunity to transform your counter space into something worth showing off.
He didn’t disturb the wallpaper on the wall next to the countertop either.
We are very happy with the customer service, the employees and the job!
It’s nice to know there are companies that do what they promised.
All 3 of the people who came to the house were a pleasure to meet and work with.
The benchtops, splashbacks and kicks are now pink and white.
Sad that there is no concern for my home, its look and the finished effect.
They do not honor their lifetime guarantee and have refused to return my calls after over a year!
The new countertops fit perfectly over the old ones and were installed in just a few hours.
A number of years later, our granite developed a crack and the installed sink is falling.
Until a new franchise owner purchases the territory that you reside in, we will not be able to assist you with your warranty claim.
We stated in our final e-mail correspondence that the company’s policy is not reasonable.
I called the local franchise that did the install and they are no longer in business.
After 4 weeks a rep was finally sent out to look at my countertop.
We look forward to assisting you in your home remodel!
He called ahead of time and was very friendly and encouraging that this would work in our weird configuration in our bathroom.
It looks like the whole area surrounding the sink/countertop was just installed also!
Justin also cut out the old sink from our 1 piece counter/sink top and lined it up to the middle of the lower cabinets!
He didn’t mind when my cat “helped” him with his work and the work is beautiful.
They did not finish the job and refuse to fix it to our satisfaction.
We were instantly put under the impression that they made their own kitchen cupboard doors to a high standard etc (being timber doors rather than mdf).
When we asked about this they confirmed that it included, handles, closing & fitting.
We have had a quote per door from between £43 – £49!
As the actual product can be sourced and purchased direct from suppliers at a fraction of the price quoted.
We haven’t looked into the prices of the granite overlay as much as to be honest we gave up after the shock of the doors.
They installed in a matter of a few hours and even cleaned up.
They arrived on time and finished within a few hours!
We plan on updating one of our bathrooms and will definitely use your services again!
I was then told to sit tight; then weeks later shown a couple of alternatives.
Layers of kicks, layers of benchtops, and layers of splashback.
The new replacement had a horrible seam right through the middle of the main part that wasn’t there before.
We have contact them personally and my phone many times.
They did come and look at the counter and agreed we have a problem but that is all they have done.
The beauty of the countertops installation was that we didn’t have to empty out our cabinets under the countertops.
We contacted a dealer closest to our area and they believed the original contractor failed to install a si nk support rack.
Pictures were supplied and questions asked by the warranty manager were answered.
I am not able to provide you with an update of when a team would be able to complete your repairs.
The rep said someone would be in contact with me within the week.
If you go with this company for any of their products hope that you never have an issue and have to have it repaired.
What Will Become Of Granite Countertops? by datalounge.com
Sad to think it could end up in landfills, and it’s not like the planet can just make more of it.
It can look a bit like marble, which never goes out of style.
The gaudy spotted (cheaper grade) granite has fallen out of favor.
And should they be scratched or burned, sand ’em down and they’re good as new.
A lot of the houses we reno are small, post war capes and ranches.
Young buyers don’t have the time or money to do any repairs, so they are thrilled with an older, small home that’s been turned into a shiny new penny.
You can add color with paint, window treatments, accessories, etc.
I wasn’t raised wealthy but our kitchen was very basic and my mother never ‘entertained’ in there.
The next morning, the doctor stopped in to see the patient, asked if he and his wife had made a decision.
And some of the worst have been in stuffy, formal dining rooms.
We looked at 5 newly-built luxury high-rise developments.
I think this is the newer trend, although more expensive than granite.
You could use a magnifying glass and still not see any damage or repair.
Alcohol and chemicals damage it to the point where it must be professionally refinished, a messy and expensive job.
I read that they think future sidewalks will be made of granite because the snow will melt right off of it.
It looks dated due to the color or other factors in the kitchen.
Marble is very ooh-aah if you’re striver-y and want a showpiece kitchen that doesn’t get used much.
It’s almost impossible to distinguish quarried quarts from engineered versions.
They may be manufactured with real quartz but up close there is nothing real about them.
Plus it’s warm to touch unlike the cold feel of granite stone.
Now that granite countertops are fading out of fashion, what will happen to all that beautiful stone quarried for frau kitchens everywhere?
I think a creamy white shaker cabinet with a light granite will always be a favorite for most people who don’t want or can’t afford to rip their passe, fad kitchen out every 10 years.
Like the entire country is built on granite and there is a huge supply.
Maybe they can grind it up and use it for driveways, like gravel.
The beveled edges on it even mirror some of the original moldings in the kitchen.
They tend to be the first home for young families who want a turn key house.
That’s bound to go the way of the avocado green and harvest gold fridges of the 70’s.
Best to go with neutral colors on the big ticket items like cabs and counters.
Maybe with”high” culture you get a personal chef to slave away for you instead?
His doctor told him a revolutionary new procedure existed that would allow his penis to be recreated.
The doctor recommended the patient discuss the procedure with his wife, make a decision about how big of a penis should be reconstructed, and the next day, he could let the doctor know how they should proceed.
The man said yes, they had, and they were going to go with granite countertops.
Pumice will be the next big thing once all these volcanoes start to blow.
Friends have used stainless steel counter tops that were custom made.
Get back to us when you spill some vinegar or lemon juice on your granite/marble.
Quartz countertops nowadays are engineered, made of 95% natural quartz and 5% resin.
Natural quartz countertops look as fake as the manufactured stuff.
Some quartz patterns however, have the textural look of granite, and can be polished to a glossy finish.
The people who thought granite would stay in style– ha!
Dangers Of Abrasive Cleaning::Marble Master by marblemasteruk.com
To prevent indiscriminate use of these potentially harmful techniques, this brief has been prepared to explain abrasive cleaning methods, how they can be physically and aesthetically destructive to historic building materials, and why they generally are not acceptable preservation treatments for historic structures.
However, careful testing should precede general cleaning to assure that the method selected will not have an adverse effect on the building materials.
Abrasive cleaning methods include all techniques that physically abrade the building surface to remove soils, discolorations or coatings.
The use of water in combination with grit may also be classified as an abrasive cleaning method.
There are basically two different methods which can be referred to as “wet grit,” and it is important to differentiate between the two.
This method may be controlled by regulating the amount of grit fed into the water stream, as well as the pressure of the water.
However, it was still customary to paint brick of poorer quality for the additional protection the paint afforded.
If the intent of a modern restoration is to return a building to its original appearance, removal of the paint not only may be historically inaccurate, but also harmful.
If this is the case, removal of paint or stucco may cause these problems to reoccur.
Thus, it is necessary to consider the purpose of the intended cleaning.
Many historic buildings which show only a slight amount of soil or discoloration are much better left as they are.
Too thorough cleaning of a historic building may not only sacrifice some of the building’s character, but also, misguided cleaning efforts can cause a great deal of damage to historic building fabric.
It is important to remember that a historic building does not have to look as if it were newly constructed to be an attractive or successful restoration or rehabilitation project.
The crux of the problem is that abrasive cleaning is just that–abrasive.
Abrasive methods “clean” by eroding dirt or paint, but at the same time they also tend to erode the surface of the building material.
If the fabric is brick, abrasive methods remove the hard, outer protective surface, and therefore make the brick more susceptible to rapid weathering and deterioration.
The impact of the grit particles tends to erode the bond between the mortar and the brick, leaving cracks or enlarging existing cracks where water can enter.
The rate at which the material subsequently weathers depends on the quality of the inner surface that is exposed.
In addition, perfectly sound and/or “tooled” mortar joints can be worn away by abrasive techniques.
Erosion and pitting of the building material by abrasive cleaning creates a greater surface area on which dirt and pollutants collect.
In addition to causing physical and aesthetic harm to the historic fabric, there are several adverse environmental effects of dry abrasive cleaning methods.
It further pollutes the environment around the job site, and deposits dust on neighboring buildings, parked vehicles and nearby trees and shrubbery.
Wet grit methods, while eliminating dust, deposit a messy slurry on the ground or other objects surrounding the base of the building.
Water which remains and freezes in cracks and openings of the masonry surface eventually may lead to spalling.
However, the matter of pressure requires further explanation.
The fact is that many professional building cleanin g firms do not really understand the extreme delicacy of historic building fabric, and how it differs from modern construction materials.
Unfortunately, no standards have been established for determining the correct pressure for cleaning each of the many historic building materials which would not cause harm.
Although a slightly larger pressure instrument may be used on historic buildings, this technique still has limited practical applicability on a large scale building cleaning project because of the cost and the relatively few technicians competent to handle the task.
Yet some professional cleaning companies which specialize in cleaning historic masonry buildings use chemicals and water at a pressure of approximately 1, 500 psi, while other cleaning firms recommend lower pressures ranging from 200 to 800 psi for a similar project.
However, cleaning historic buildings under such high pressure should be considered an exception rather than the rule, and would require very careful testing and supervision to assure that the historic surface materials could withstand the pressure without gouging, pitting or loosening.
There is no one cleaning formula or pressure suitable for all situations.
Obviously, such abrasive techniques should not be applied to clean sound plaster or stuccoed walls, or decorative plaster wall surfaces.
As opposed to kiln-dried masonry materials such as brick and architectural terra-cotta, building stones are generally homogeneous in character at the time of a building’s construction.
These outer surfaces are very susceptible to damage by abrasive or improper chemical cleaning.
Polished or honed marble or granite should never be treated abrasively, as the abrasion would remove the finish in much the way glass would be etched or “frosted” by such a process.
Removing paint, stains or graffiti from most types of stone may be accomplished by a chemical treatment carefully selected to best handle the removal of the particular type of paint or stain without damaging the stone.
Galvanized sheet metal is especially vulnerable, as abrasive treatment would wear away the protective galvanized layer.
However, conservation specialists are now employing a sensitive technique of glass bead peening to clean some of the harder metals, in particular large bronze outdoor sculpture.
Because these glass beads are completely spherical, there are no sharp edges to cut the surface of the metal.
Coatings are applied which protect the surface from corrosion, but they must be renewed every 3 to 5 years.
It is thought that these methods “work harden” the surface by compressing the outer layer, and actually may be good for the surface of the metal.
Such treatment will, however, result in a small amount of pitting.
Any abrasive cleaning of metal building components will also remove the caulking from joints and around other openings.
For the most part, abrasive cleaning is destructive to historic building materials.
This is still an abrasive technique, and without proper caution in handling, it can be just as harmful to the building surface as any other abrasive cleaning method.
At this time, and only under certain circumstances, abrasive cleaning methods may he used in the rehabilitation of interior spaces of warehouse or industrial buildings for contemporary uses.
It is expected after such treatment that brick surfaces will be rough and pitted, and wood will be somewhat frayed or “fuzzy” with raised wood grain.
Abrasive cleaning of such an interior would be destructive to the historic integrity of the building.
Rough surfaces of abrasively cleaned wooden elements are hard to keep clean.
The force of abrasive blasting may cause grit particles to lodge in cracks of wooden elements, which will be a nuisance as the grit is loosened by vibrations and gradually sifts out.
Interior brick is usually softer than exterior brick, and generally of a poorer quality.
The resulting bare brick wall may require repointing, often difficult to match.
Steam cleaning can also be used effectively to clean some historic building fabric.
A natural bristle brush may also facilitate this type of chemically assisted cleaning, particularly in areas of heavy dirt deposits or stains, and a wooden scraper can be useful in removing thick encrustations of soot.
It is almost impossible to remove paint from masonry surfaces without causing some damage to the masonry, and it is best to leave the surfaces as they are or repaint them if necessary.
At this time it is a slow, expensive cleaning method, but its initial success indicates that it may have an increasingly important role in the future.
Peeling paint can be removed from wood by hand scraping and sanding.
Too much heat applied to the same spot can burn the wood, and the fumes caused by burning paint are dangerous to inhale, and can he explosive.
Thus, adequate ventilation is important when using a heat gun or heat plate, as well as when using a chemical stripper.
Any time water is used on masonry as a cleaning agent, either in its pure state or in combination with chemical cleaners, it is very important that the work be done in warm weather when there is no danger of frost for several months.
Each kind of masonry has a unique composition and reacts differently with various chemical cleaning substances.
What may be a safe and effective cleaner for certain stain on one type of stone, may leave unattractive discolorations on another stone, or totally dissolve a third type.
Abrasive cleaning methods are responsible for causing a great deal of damage to historic building materials.
There are alternative, less harsh means of cleaning and removing paint and stains from historic buildings.
A historic building is irreplaceable, and should be cleaned using only the “gentlest means possible” to best preserve it.
Such techniques involve the use of certain materials which impact or abrade the surface under pressure, or abrasive tools and equipment.
Tools and equipment that are abrasive to historic building materials include wire brushes, rotary wheels, power sanding disks and belt sanders.
Depending on the manner in which it is applied, water may soften the impact of the grit, but water that is too highly pressurized can be very abrasive.
One technique involves the addition of a stream of water to a regular sandblasting nozzle.
With the second technique, a very small amount of grit is added to a pressurized water stream.
Many mid-19th century brick buildings were painted immediately or soon after completion to protect poor quality brick or to imitate another material, such as stone.
By the 1870s, brick buildings were often left unpainted as mechanization in the brick industry brought a cheaper pressed brick and fashion decreed a sudden preference for dark colors.
It is a common 20th century misconception that all historic masonry buildings were initially unpainted.
Many older buildings were painted or stuccoed at some point to correct recurring maintenance problems caused by faulty construction techniques, to hide alterations, or in an attempt to solve moisture problems.
While it is clearly important to remove unsightly stains, heavy encrustations of dirt, peeling paint or other surface coatings, it may not be equally desirable to remove paint from a building which originally was painted.
A thin layer of soil is more often protective of the building fabric than it is harmful, and seldom detracts from the building’s architectural and/or historic character.
Unless there are stains, graffiti or dirt and pollution deposits which are destroying the building fabric, it is generally preferable to do as little cleaning as possible, or to repaint where necessary.
An abrasively cleaned historic structure may be physically as well as aesthetically damaged.
In this way, abrasive cleaning is destructive and causes irreversible harm to the historic building fabric.
Grit blasting may also increase the water permeability of a brick wall.
Some types of stone develop a protective patina or “quarry crust” parallel to the worked surface (created by the movement of moisture towards the outer edge), which also may be damaged by abrasive cleaning.
This not only results in the loss of historic craft detailing but also requires repointing, a step involving considerable time, skill and expense, and which might not have been necessary had a gentler method been chosen.
In this sense, the building fabric “attracts” more dirt, and will require more frequent cleaning in the future.
Because of the friction caused by the abrasive medium hitting the building fabric, these techniques usually create a considerable amount of dust, which is unhealthy, particularly to the operators of the abrasive equipment.
Some adjacent materials not intended for abrasive treatment such as wood or glass, may also be damaged because the equipment may be difficult to regulate.
In colder climates where there is the threat of frost, any wet cleaning process applied to historic masonry structures must be done in warm weather, allowing ample time for the wall to dry out thoroughly before cold weather sets in.
High-pressure wet cleaning may force an inordinate amount of water into the walls, affecting interior materials such as plaster or joist ends, as well as metal building components within the walls.
Because these variables make each cleaning project unique, it is difficult to establish specific standards at this time.
In cleaning specifications, pressure is generally abbreviated as “psi” (pounds per square inch), which technically refers to the “tip” pressure, or the amount of pressure at the nozzle of the blasting apparatus.
Despite the apparent care taken by most architects and building cleaning contractors to prepare specifications for pressure cleaning which will not cause harm to the delicate fabric of a historic building, it is very difficult to ensure that the same amount of pressure is applied to all parts of the building.
Consequently, they may accept building cleaning projects for which they have no experience.
The amount of pressure used in any kind of cleaning treatment which involves pressure, whether it is dry or wet grit, chemicals or just plain water, is crucial to the outcome of the cleaning project.
Industrial chemical cleaning commonly utilizes pressures between 1, 000 and 2, 500 psi.
Cleaning at this low pressure requires the use of a very fine 00 or 0 mesh grit forced through a nozzle with a 1/4-inch opening.
An architectural conservator might decide, after testing, that some historic structures could be cleaned properly using a moderate pressure (200-600 psi), or even a high pressure (600-1800 psi) water rinse.
These differences in the amount of pressure used by commercial or industrial building cleaners and architectural conservators point to one of the main problems in using abrasive means to clean historic buildings: misunderstanding of the potentially fragile nature of historic building materials.
Decisions regarding the proper cleaning process for historic structures can be made only after careful analysis of the building fabric, and testing.
Such techniques quite logically cause greater damage to softer and more porous materials, such as brick or architectural terra-cotta.
Glazed architectural terra-cotta and ceramic veneer have a baked on glaze which is also easily damaged by abrasive cleaning.
Large areas of brick or architectural terra-cotta which have been painted are best left painted, or repainted if necessary.
Indeed, when plaster or stucco is treated abrasively it is usually with the intention of removing the plaster or stucco from whatever base material or substrate it is covering.
However, as the stone is exposed to weathering and environmental pollutants, the surface may become friable, or may develop a protective skin or patina.
Such detailing is easily damaged by abrasive cleaning techniques; the pattern of tooling or cutting is erased, and the crisp lines of moldings or carving are worn or pitted.
It is generally preferable to underclean, as too strong a cleaning procedure will erode the stone, exposing a new and increased surface area to collect atmospheric moisture and dirt.
Such harsh cleaning treatment also obliterates historic tool marks, fine carving and detailing, which precludes its use on any interior or exterior woodwork which has been hand planed, milled or carved.
Harsh abrasive blasting would destroy the original surface finish of most of these metals, and would increase the possibility of corrosion.
Very fine (75125 micron) glass beads are used at a low pressure of 60 to 80 psi.
After cleaning, these statues undergo a lengthy process of polishing.
Sometimes a very fine smooth sand is used at a low pressure to clean or remove paint and corrosion from copper flashing and other metal building components.
Metal cleaned in this manner must be painted immediately to prevent rapid recurrence of corrosion.
But the extremely complex nature and the time required by such processes make it very expensive and impractical for large-scale use at this time.
Cast and wrought iron architectural elements may be gently sandblasted or abrasively cleaned using a wire brush to remove layers of paint, rust and corrosion.
Because iron is hard, its surface, which is naturally somewhat uneven, will not be noticeably damaged by controlled abrasion.
But this slight abrasion creates a good surface for paint, since the iron must he repainted immediately to prevent corrosion.
Such areas must be recaulked quickly to prevent moisture from entering and rusting the metal, or causing deterioration of other building fabric inside the structure.
Such areas may include stone window sills, the tops of cornices or column capitals, or other detailed areas of the facade.
Remember that it is very time consuming and expensive to use any abrasive technique on a historic building in such a manner that it does not cause harm to the often fragile and friable building materials.
Those instances (generally industrial and some commercial properties), when it may be acceptable to use an abrasive treatment on the interior of historic structures have been described.
It is also difficult to seal, paint or maintain these surfaces which can be splintery and a problem to the building’s occupants.
Removal of plaster will reduce the thermal and insulating value of the walls.
Removing surface plaster from such brick by abrasive means often exposes gaping mortar joints and mismatched or repaired brickwork which was never intended to show.
The “gentlest means possible” of removing dirt from a building surface can be achieved by using a low-pressure water wash, scrubbing areas of more persistent grime with a natural bristle (never metal) brush.
Low-pressure water or steam will soften the dirt and cause the deposits to rise to the surface, where they can be washed away.
A limewash or absorbent talc, whiting or clay poultice with a solvent can be used effectively to draw out salts or stains from the surface of the selected areas of a building facade.
Some physicists are experimenting with the use of pulsed laser beams and xenon flash lamps for cleaning historic masonry surfaces.
There are many chemical paint removers which, when applied to painted wood, soften and dissolve the paint so that it can be scraped off by hand.
Particularly thick layers of paint may be softened with a heat gun or heat plate, providing appropriate precautions are taken, and the paint film scraped off by hand.
Furthermore, the hot air from heat guns can start fires in the building cavity.
Otherwise water which has penetrated the masonry may freeze, eventually causing the surface of the building to crack and spall, which may create another conservation problem more serious to the health of the building than dirt.
Water and/or chemicals may interact with minerals in stone and cause new types of stains to leach out to the surface immediately, or more gradually in a delayed reaction.
101+ Caesarstone Reviews From Real Owners by countertopinvestigator.com
The negative comments we’ve seen have always been related to a problem with the installation.
Most companies employ a highly-trained team of technicians that have placed hundreds of these countertops in people’s homes in the past but unfortunately, some companies hire casual or part-time workers to do the job.
A crew of professionals will be able to match up all of the seams, do precise cuts and line the edges up perfectly.
If you are at all unhappy with the quartz countertop you receive you can contact the company.
Only rarely does a slab arrive with any problems since quality control is extremely strict at the point of manufacturing.
The thing you do need to keep an eye on is the installation team.
You’ll find the prices to be very comparable to the cost of quartz countertops from most other manufacturers.
The best way to make sure that you’re not being taken advantage of by a high priced contractor is to compare his prices and reputation against his peers.
I am having the exact problems dozens of other reviewers here have had.
Water marks show up all over it, giving it a strange mottled surface.
It is a faulty product and consumers should stay away from it!
I have had caesarstone cement in for about two months now and 90% of the time it looks terrible.
The only way i can explain the positive reviews is it must be people who eat out a lot.
I worry that it will just get worse over the years and need to be replaced.
I was told that it would last better and not need the treatment that granite needs.
I clean my countertops with a soapy dishcloth, then rinse and dry .
Caesarstone came out to clean then of the mess and they even said hard to keep clean from touching them.
The surface immediately looks like brand new with a beautiful, matte honed finish.
The service guy came yesterday to try and bring out all the color but was not successful.
In my sunny rooms, every fingerprint and streak shows, which is so frustrating.
When you decide to buy: engineered quartz is locally fabricated by small mom and pop companies all around the globe.
The reason for all these negative reviews is the number on disappointed consumers.
I would have paid for granite or marble, and my countertops are defective.
I love the colors of their countertops as they give you many different options to choose from, so there is definitely one that will fit your project!
My client consistently has streaks, fading and hand prints on his product.
Ceasarstone has been great trying to fix the problem, however it is a pain.
Caesarstone countertops have become quite the rage these days but what do people really think of them?
We haven’t come across one yet that is unhappy with the slab itself.
If anything goes wrong during the installation, your countertop just isn’t going to look right.
A second-rate installation crew just isn’t going to be able to make your countertop shine the way it’s supposed to with a flawless fit.
From that point on, any problems with your countertop will be directly related to the installation of it.
These counters are fully guaranteed and you’ll be sent a replacement quickly.
Find out how qualified they are, how long they have been installing countertops and most importantly what type of guarantee goes along with the installation.
Steer clear of this product as the customer service is atrocious.
My white color 2141 change color tone from 2 difference slab in 3 years.
I am disappointed to see from many other reviewers here that they have had no satisfaction with the company.
I have to continually use special cleaners to keep the stains out.
I have a family of 4 and am not abusive to my kitchen – just normal wear and tear.
In addition, the customer service from the company is terrible.
It’s over 100 years old and is inexpensive compared to other cleansers.
Terrible surface and we paid thousands of dollars for it and it’s brand new.
It looks great except when any little bit of light shines on it, it looks covered with a millions small waterspots.
On line it states that grapes are a food that will not stain the counter.
The people that really know the most about each product is the fabricators.
Around my sink area they have changed color, and they are chipped or pitted in a couple of places.
It has been approx 4 years and the caesarstone that was installed looks horrible – it is discolored in many areas, everything leaves a mark even water that has been wiped up immediately.
Their quartz countertops are one of the highest quality and most durable quartz countertops on the market.
The straight part makes it undesirable….since this color has soft short squiggle veins throughout….
For The Love Of A House: Marble… by fortheloveofahouse.blogspot.com
It’s a perfect story of a consumer who is educated about her choices and sticks to them.
Now the little scratches have become ‘patina’, and the big scratches are masked by all of the little ones that have happened since.
I adore it and couldn’t think of a finer island than that piece of marble.
And a little etching is like a little ding on the furniture — it’s character!
What a gem of a piece of antique marble for your island!
And being black, even the lint from the paper towels shows on it!
Thank you so much for this article, it has helped in my decision making.
I would leave all sorts of things on it overnight and nothing.
We once lived in a house with a marble entrance hall – now that had patina!
However, we now have a salesperson who loves marble and although she told us about the etching etc, she’s been so helpful and supportive.
I love doing my pastry, pasta dough, and bread doughs directly on the surfaces.
It’s stone, it’s tough, it looks beautiful with age and use.
As you very well know, that leaves just about everything else with a big fat question mark, including the counters.
After ready your description of the aging process of marble it makes me giddy to think we can get this look.
I would not hesitate to get marble for a kitchen, especially for an old house.
Then it just becomes part of the equation and doesn’t bother you nearly as much, well at least it doesn’t bother me anymore.
We use it and love every mark or spot from it’s past.
I love love marble, for some reason, the soapstone is my fave!
Actually, one could subtract “marble” and insert any other material.
I remember those early days, when we focused on every little scratch and scrape.
My ‘new’ home was built in 1902 and it is also full of antiques and vintage finds.
Your piece is beautiful and will develop that patina over time.
I used polished marble tile on the counters of my last house not realizing that lemon juice would etch them.
I would love to take a sledgehammer to the darned countertop to get rid of myself!
They all said the polished granite showed way more than the honed, and the honed had its own problems, etc.
Even the marble-looking granite just doesn’t do my dream justice!
I went with granite, and find that that stains (tomato sauce, in particular) so nothing’s bulletproof.
We are being told how evil marble is; how it is not appropriate for kitchen use etc etc.
This is a small price to pay for that type of warranty!
I have granite in my kitchen and love it, and a marble cutting board (which has etched areas).
The cabinets are too the ceiling and are from candlelight cabinetry.
So far, the only thing we’ve both been able to agree on is the beadboard ceiling and the recessed lighting.
We are both all about working to bring items of age and patina into our home.
They are absolutely no trouble, though being older they already have that patina built from small scratches and polishings.
We’ve had it about two years and you’re right, the first 6 months are the worst worrying about every little etch ring.
I think its important (especially if both people cook;) that everyone is in agreement on materials.
I have butcher block on my island, and want to put marble around the perimeter, needs to look old in my old house.
Base For Granite Slab? by answers.yahoo.com
Bass is like a slow-movement of air from a fan that bounces off of walls to hit you.
You want the spikes so the higher frequency sounds that shake the speaker enclosures is not muffled by the carpet.
With woofers built in – you do not have as much placement options as you do with a dedicated subwoofer where near a long corner gives you longer walls to bounce sound off of.
Double up using contact glue if you need to have it thicker and stronger.
Can you install a granite slab top on top of a tiled countertop without re moval.?
Even if you ‘think’ the speakers are in the same place – an inch or two difference can create a huge difference in the location of nodes in the room.